The Lost Art of Sewing

Flat Patternmaking

2012-01-31T17:30:00.000-08:00

Greetings Readers!

Soul Collections had a Lot going on this Month to kickstart the New Year Twenty Twelve!! Very excited Beginner's Sewing Group :) Everyone sharing valuable information like www.freecycle.org where people can trade or recycle their things sharing & giving. In Intermediate Sewing, Zee learned to adjust the Commercial Pant Pattern to her customized Fit & Krystle branches out into her new Career path in Menswear Design :) Krystle showed me her 1st Portfolio she made taking a 1 semeser course @ F.I.T. & I wanted to Keep it!!!! Krystle finished her 1st pair of Classic Tailored Men's Pants to show in order to get into the program. And she said, if not, she will continue to take classes to get where she needs to go!! I love her attitude. It's all about Determination & you can do Anything!

Mary is off to a Great start in Advanced Specializations making her 1st Vintage Inspired Coat! And she is also taking Pant Patternmaking @ Soul Collection's fulfilling her dreams in learning all aspects of Sewing & Patternmaking in her Career path as a Costume Design History Teacher :)

Pel, Sabine & Henry are all taking Flat Patternmaking from Men's Patternmaking (Soul Collection's now offers Men's Flat Patternmaking) to Creative Design Patternmaking as Henry begins to bring his designs to Life, and Pel increases his knowledge in the beginning stages through to Creative Design.

Sabine is in her final stages of her 8 piece Slopers. Sabine is learning Patternmaking to help her make Patterns true to her size & height. We have tested her upper body Slopers making them into Patterns & cutting them out in Muslin. We made an adjustment @ the Front & Back Shoulder Seams to rebalance her Patterns front to back. Upon recutting the Muslin & trying back on the Back Neck was gapping, so I pinned out the excess gap & slashed the Pattern frm Top to Bottom closing the Neck Width of the pinned amount & Opening @ the Sweep & it Fits Perfectly!!

And last but certainly not least, Kemi is beginning her Career path learning Technical Design through Soul Collection's Intensive Technical Design Training Course, which has been my Professional Career for 13+ years in Intimate Apparel/Sleepwear. Focus in this course is on Fit (Correcting & Evaluating the Best Fit for the Customer targeted) and on Sewing Construction. Kemi would start off first as an Intern, Freelancer or Assistant Technical Designer working her way up to a Technical Designer, I have to say is the best field I could have ever chosen upon graduating from F.I.T. :)

Also follow Soul Collections on

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Soul-Collections/154755287907659

See you soon!

Jean Jacket Revised

2012-01-05T19:56:00.000-08:00

Greetings Readers!

Happy New Year again :)

Soul Collections begins the New year off w/the re-launching of my New website design @ http://www.soul-collections.com/ & if you "like it" let me know :)

And Soul Collection's starts off with (of course Beginner's Sewing, which is the 1st of every month) & Advanced Specializations with the Jean Jacket. (I decided to do the Jean Jacket out of Velour Animal Print instead ;) Of course, my dilemna w/the Commercial Patterns is the size range never quite matches up to the sizes we normally would buy in ready to wear. So cutting the Pattern according to my size that corresponded w/the Bust, Waist & Hip Measurements listed on the Pattern envelope, I found the Jacket overall was too big! I did not do a muslin fit first, because of time constraints, however, the students will be adjusting their fits directly from the Pattern pieces, in which I used the Pattern Tracing Cloth from Kwik Trace, w/the help of my intern Tanisha retracing the pieces (Tanisha is the very best:). I didnt want to take apart the seams, I just pinned the Sides & the Centerback..but I pinned the C.B below the Neckline, so I would not need to make any adjustments to the Collar. Then I marked the pins w/Tailor Chalk & used those markings as my sewing lines.

Then just measure how wide you want the S.A. to be (5/8" is standard) & cut away the excess after altering the stitching line. And be sure to press the Seam Allowances Open, even if the Pattern Instruction does not state this (which it didnt).

Now taking in the S.Seams starting from the Armhole means an Adjustment to the Sleeve. The Adjustment @ the Armhole @ S.Seams = Reduced Chest Measurement. Reduced Chest Measurement @ S.Seams = Smaller Muscle Measurement on Sleeve. I measured the amount I took in @ the Side Seam, which was -1 1/4" (on ea side) (incidentally, this jacket was +4" too big for me, even though I followed the size to cut based on the Body Measurements). I measured in this same amount (-1 1/4) on the Sleeve Inseam (which are the two edges that will be sewn together on the Sleeve) reducing this width @ Sleeve Underarm in order for the Sleeve to fit into the same Armhole. I tried on the Sleeve Shell & the remainder of the Width around the Elbow & Sleeve Opening was also too big, so I just gradually took in this width as well, however, maintaining the
-1 1/4" @ the Underarm.

The Jacket is not finished as of yet, I'll be back next week w/the Finale :) But I love how it fits now!

Sewing is Therapy & the end results is so fulfilling ;)
I'll see you next week :)

http://www.soul-collections.com/

Happy New Year 2012!!!

2011-12-31T21:34:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year 2012!!!

Soul Collections is wishing You a Very Happy New Year Twenty Twelve.

Look to the Year w/Anticipation & Excitement, and Pursue your Dreams!

Merry Christmas!!

2011-12-24T23:13:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas!!

For unto us a child is born, unto us a son is given: and the government shall be upon his shoulder: and his name shall be called Wonderful, Counsellor, The mighty God, The everlasting Father, The Prince of Peace. Isaiah 9:6

May Your Christmas be Blessed by Jesus the Christ, the Savior of the World with the Fullness of His Joy and the Wonder of His Love!

Have a Very Merry Christmas Everybody!

2011

Men's Patternmaking

2011-12-21T18:49:00.000-08:00

Welcome New Readers & Hello Everyone!

Well every year for the past 5 years, I am always busy writing papers in the Fall/Winter Seasons into the Spring, which it gets a little hectic, as I am ending Post Grad 11 Spring Semester & preparing to enter the Master's Program next year. But Soul Collection's is Always still bringing Life to a new Soul Student :)

Henry just finished my newly introduced Class, Men's Patternmaking! Henry is in his early 20's & currently in college for his Engineering Degree, but has a gift to design. So his skill w/numbers & graphs helped him Draft the Slopers w/ease, and Henry is anticipating making his Designs come to Life! I love the ambition of these young people :) And even if you're not that young, now is the time to make your dreams come true!

Henry drafted the Front & Back Upper Body, Straight Set in Sleeve & the Classic Men's Pant Slopers based on his measurements corresponding w/the Men's Standard Measurements. The Slopers are the foundation to drafting & designing any other styles. Men's Patterns do not have a Dart in the Front Body as Women's Patterns do, but men's patterns do have a dart in the Back Pattern. So, I found teaching Men's Patternmaking was easier than Women's ;). We need the Darts in the Front for the hollows in our bodies below the bust that creates the curves :) Men are basically straight & do not need the excess taken out in the front upper body, unless it is for a Design feature. I also learned, that Men's Armholes are basically the same, because Men do not have a bust, therefore the elongated curve @ the front pattern's armhole is not necessary. So it was quite fun comparing the differences. Once the Slopers are created, they need to be retraced & then add seam allowance to make a Pattern that can be sewn together. The Slopers are never to be manipulated, because they are the foundation, slopers always need to be retraced to create something else ;)

Henry completed his set of Slopers & Patterns and he's coming back next year January to start designing from his Slopers :). Henry had shown me his sketch book & he is actually very good. I am very proud of him. Henry received his Certificate of Completion, which lit up his eyes as he said "Wow, This makes it all the more worth it." Sometimes, we just need a little boost to build our confidence.

2012 is going to be a Great Year! Now is the time to set some goals for yourself & do them! It doesn't take much, but initiative. http://www.blumberglegalforms.com/ has the legal forms needed for all of those interested in starting your own business.

Talk to you on Christmas Day, it's the Most Wonderful Time of the Year.

I hope you will join me on that day :)

Thank you for reading

Stay Tuned for the Launch of Soul Collection's New Website in 2012!

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone 2011!

2011-11-23T15:42:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving is the Holiday, Everyone across the World celebrates. The world takes time out to give Thanks.

So We Thank God for His Mercy & Grace towards Us! He has been so good to us! He gave us Another Brand New Day and Another Chance & Most of All, He Gave us His only begotton Son, Jesus Christ. Thank You

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone! Be Safe & Thank you for Reading :)

Intermediate Sewing - Fit Adjustments

2011-10-30T18:07:00.000-07:00

Greetings Readers!

I hope you all are doing well & challenging yourselves to undertake something new, you'll never know what you can do until you've tried what you've never done that you desired to do :) (of course, legally & morally speaking, I thought I would just throw that in there) Students @ Soul Collections have challenged themselves in many different avenues this year continuing in The Sewing & Patternmaking Experience. Students who have completed the Art of Beginner's Sewing have advanced & learned how to adjust the Commercial Patterns to Fit their size in The Art of Intermediate Sewing. It has been a great learning experience for them! First, you must know your body measurements = Bust, Waist & Hip (@ the fullest part), so I measured the girls & compared the difference of their body measurements to the Pattern. Now, remember I said most of the Commercial Patterns are about 2-3x smaller than what you buy in Ready to Wear. So if you are a size 8 in the stores, most likely you may be a size 12 or 14 in the Commercial Patterns. You really have to get familiar w/the Brands that is closest to your size, (I personally like Vogue Patterns). Once we made the comparison, we calculated the difference. Now what I like to do is measure the Pattern (we are only working w/half the Pattern, so whatever measurement it is, you have to multiply it by 2 for both Front & Back Patterns, then subtract the 5/8" S.A x 2 for the same (S.A is included in the Pattern & will state it on the directions). Whatever the difference is, you add that amount proportionately to the Pattern + about 3/8" of Wearing Ease on ea side if it is Woven fabric) Ease is so you can move & sit down in your garment. We started on Muslin Fabric before cutting out on the actual Fashion Fabric.

I recommend to not just add all of the difference to the Sideseams, so what we did for the Pant, we Slashed & Opened the Center of the Leg (if the Waist happened to be too big, you can just take out the excess w/a Dart). We did the same thing for the Skirt. And in order to Slim the Leg Opening (as you may not want that excess width @ the Leg Opening), you can Reduce from the Center of the Leg (known as the Grainline) on ea side (Inseam & Outseam) to the desired Width. And now Autumn & Penny were ready to cut out their Patterns in the Muslin & try them on! On Autumn's Skirt, it looked a little too boxy, so we added a C.B & C.Front Seam along w/a Slits to give her more shape & style to it :) The Skirt & Pants fit & they were able to cut out in the fashion fabric they chose. Autumn is also making a Custom Sized Vest from Garment Designer Computerized Patternmaking :) We have 1 more class before completion. I will keep you posted :) So far, I love what I see!

Soul Collection's starts Men's Patternmaking Next Month!

Learn something New by Doing something New!

Garment Designer Computerized Patternmaking

2011-09-27T11:28:00.000-07:00

Hi Everybody!

Remember my vacation to New Mexico? Well, now, Soul Collections offers a new Product & Course to her Collections ;) Garment Designer Computerized Patternmaking!! Garment Designer is a Patternmaking Software from Cochenille Design Studio's that is User Friendly for even a Beginner desiring to make their own Patterns for Sewing or Knitting! :) The software is designed for Windows or Mac Users.

Garment Designer has built in Styles, such as a Vest, Basic Skirt, Pant, Surplus, Straight Sleeve, Dolman Sleeve, Dress, Underwear & Basic Slopers just to name a very few of the mix & match built in silhouettes, and then you Build on these Patterns Designing & Creating them for your personal style by Click & Drag Pattern Editing. Garment Designer provides Custom Fit Options not only for Women, but for Children, Plus Size, Men, Petites, & Dolls!! :)

Sew if your interested in making your Own Patterns such as this Wrap Dress

to make this

or my specialty, Jackets

Garment Designer is easy enough for a Beginner to use & comes with an extensive Manual. The software also provides the Final Pattern Marker with recommendations of fabric yardage or yarn to purchase for your project.

It is the best software, user friendly I have used & highly recommend for anyone desiring to take your Creative mindset & Sewing or Knitting Skills to the next level :)

www.soul-collections.com/GarmentDesigner.htm

Computerized Garment Designer Patternmaker

2011-09-01T19:46:00.000-07:00

Hello Everyone :)

So we are going to talk a little bit about Patternmaking this month, which envelopes my Career as a Technical Designer Manager. I learned how to sew @ an early age w/my mom having me watch her & then teaching me how to thread the machine. I spent a lot of time watching my mom. And later she would take me to get the Commercial Patterns no matter how hard it was :). And I would make my clothes. So when I went to the Fashion Institute of Technology, I took Patternmaking Technology for my Associates Degree, because I wanted to make my own Patterns! But little did I know how involved Flat Patternmaking was of what you don't see behind the scenes.

It is a whole other world of Creativity, but also challenging your mind to Analytical Thinking to develop a Pattern from a Sketch or Correct a Pattern for Fit, which is where my expertise comes in :) Drag lines on a garment indicate a Problem & where the drag lines point to indicates the Solution. So throughout my journey, I learned by Doing. I learned the principles of Patternmaking in college, but it wasn't until I had to correct a Pattern that I realized how 1 little curve line not squared (crossmarking) or a misplaced notch or a line not trued (blended together w/another line & forced to sew together) can cause uneven matching sides, pointed or restricted/puckering seamlines. If you lower or raise your Armhole, you either need to raise or lower you Shoulder Slope or raise or lower your Cap Height in order for the Sleeve to fit back into the same Armhole & Increase or Decrease the Sleeve Inseam. The Professors were Excellent & very knowledgable @ F.I.T, however, they were not in the Technical Design field to explain situations to the students as to why certain things were done & the importance of doing them. The Professors were natural Patternmakers w/years of experience who knew how to draft Patterns from a Sketch, but unless you knew the right questions to ask, (which I didn't know what to ask) they taught us how to draft Patterns from a Sketch. So I teach @ Soul Collections all the issues you may have on an "if & then" basis (if you do this, then that will happen)

And now, Soul Collections is Introducing Computerized Garment Designer Patternmaking ;)

Computerized Flat Patternmaking is User Friendly, but it also figures out some of the hard potential problems w/the Relationship btwn the Armhole & Sleeve for you ;) when you have symmetry on. In my opinion, if you learn the Basic Principles of Flat Patternmaking, you will be more energized to design on Computerized Garment Designer Patternmaking & see your creations be executed faster :), but if you don't know Flat Patternmaking, you can still be successful learning how to use this Software available thru Soul Collections. The Pattern above is the Wrap Dress below & wallah!!!

Stay Tuned to Soul Collections & I look forward to sharing w/you all :)

Patternmaking

2011-08-15T19:57:00.000-07:00

Hi Readers ;)

I just got back from vacation in New Mexico on a Computerized Patternmaking Retreat :) Vacation is not necessarily a need to do nothing, it's just doing something different from your day to day activities. So what I choose to do on my vacations is to go to Sewing & Craft Conventions upbuilding my skills, value & my Business :)
So, in light of my trip, I've been sort of in transition within other aspects of my life, which is representative of the Fall Season, which can be difficult @ times "When you don't know what to do." (song by Charles Billingsley, Country Gospel Singer). I like to figure out when adversity comes, where it is coming from? Why? and, Should I stay put or move on? Well in this particular case, I must stay put.

Sunrising in New Mexico

Cow hanging out

Casa Inn we stayed for the Patternmaking Retreat

Sew, in this Season, I still must keep my creative juices flowing, so I always hold on to words of encouragement. I decided to create my own line of Patterns, because some of the Commercial Patterns I have do not fit properly nor the sizing as Ready to Wear, which most home sewers are aware of, but I choose to have patterns more closely to American Standard Sizing so the size 10 girl is not needing a 1X Size Pattern, (which will most likely still need adjustments to fit Missy Proportions), because her size is about 3x bigger than the size 10 listed on the Pattern Envelope.

Tanisha, my intern has been a big help in the launching of Soul Collection's Patterns as she learns how to Flat Sketch, Measure, Sew & Draft Patterns. She is also a continuing student with Soul Collections & completed her first Dress.

Tanisha's Sleeveless Tank Dress w/Empire Waist, Lined @ the Top w/Inverted Pleats, Princess Seams & Side Zipper. (needs some ironing, but overall Looks Great!)

Most of my students are in their early to mid 20's. And I really encourage these girls to fulfill their dreams. This age group of young people, I would say is @ a time in their lives when they need to be guided to make the right decisions, career paths & be encouraged to pursue their dreams.

In this group, I have a student who is interested in designing clothing for Plus Size Women (which incidentally is a Profitable Market, if one knows how to Fit) Plus Size is not making everything Wide & then the garment does not fit close to the body, nor the Sleeves Fit close under the arms. There are ways of manipulating the Pattern (two-dimensional) where it accomodates the Fullness of the Body, but does not look overly sized. There is so much you can learn w/Patternmaking & I am still learning after 13 yrs of experience, while I yet maintain the skill by doing. Patternmaking is an Art, which brings me to my other student, whose Father is a Patternmaker & made her a Sportsbra Wife Beater to wear under her uniform when she was in highschool so she could play sports but still be conservative :) Sabine wants to learn how to sew to be just as innovative. I also have a student taking classes for Interior Design, which our 1st project may have given her ideas for some Interior Decorating w/the Pillowcase Pincushions :)

And, last but certainly not least is my student frm Tennesee who works f/t as an Asst Teacher & p/t in Real Estate, but yet is pursuing her dream to have her own Fashion Line. She is a real go-getter destined to succeed!

Summer Sessions ~ Internship

2011-06-27T18:15:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers :)

Soul Collection's first class completed this month :) in my new place on Gates ;). Summer Sessions for The Art of Beginner's Sewing fee is only $100 until September. Sew join us for these Affordable Classes before the Fall/Winter Sessions begin, (which are incidentally are still affordable :).

Again, I love my students! It is so amazing to see what achievements they accomplish starting from nothing to Something. My students are usually w/in the 26 year old range, I am realizing, with big dreams. And this is the ripe age to fulfill it! However, if you are beyond this age, it is never too late. I started out late going to College @ the ripe age of 26 but was driven by my own passion & dreams. Sew what motivates you?

Here is Krystle's Bag :) Krystle went from not knowing Anything, to Sewing Pin Cushion, a Vinyl Bag & a Boxer Short. And now her mom wants her to make Golf Bags ;) This may be her side gig!

Here is Sherlly's Designer Bag ;)

So come & join us @ Soul Collections & don't forget to check out the Course Schedule for Classes being offered.

And lastly, but certainly not least, Tanisha, my Intern is doing Amazing with helping Soul Collection's Projects. She is learning how to make Patterns & I have given her an assignment to design some variations of a Pattern Soul Collection's will be offering soon, as well as sewing Sew-by Samples for Show & Tell :)

Sewing Patterns ~ Moving Forward

2011-06-09T10:48:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers!!! ;)

I have been Moving! into my New Condo ;) I am officially a Home Owner ;) no more Renting, but Owning. A Door (spiritually speaking) has opened. I would love to chat w/you about the spiritual realm, but that's in my other blog ;) Sew, Back to Sewing!!!!!! Incidentally, I do not have internet access hooked up in my new place yet, which is restraining me from blogging, but here are some pics I would love to share w/you. now, Soul Collection's has its Own Sewing Room, which I will share those pics a little later.

I also have an Intern, Tanisha, who was a former Student & now a continuing Student in Intermediate Sewing, but a Life Learner in Fashion. Tanisha actually volunteered asking if she could Intern for Soul Collections, and as she is Learning & Doing, she is helping me to get Soul Collection's Patterns Launched. That's right Soul Collections will soon be launching its Own Designer Pattern Collection consisting of Easy to Sew, Fashionable Silhouettes that Fit ;) and are Sized according to the American Standardized Measurements :). Tanisha started this week & has learned how to draft a Tunic & a Sleeve in 2 - 2 1/2" hour sessions! She is completely elated! And I am completely Thankful! Tanisha is a Blessing!

Sew, Please Stay Tuned...

Sewing, Patternmaking, Gaucho Pant

2011-05-03T18:49:00.000-07:00

Oh My, What a Month! Hello Readers!!!

Ok, to catch you up, I am done w/this Semester (for those that are unaware, I am in Bible School & Seminary p/t for my Master's. I am in the last prerequisite Class before the Master's Program begins, and it has been 1 intense year. So I had a couple of final reports to write. In the meantime, remember (you probably don't :), but one of my blogs, I said I had something to share & it's I'm Moving! ;) It's official, and I will be closing soon into my New Condo in less than 2 weeks!!! Hurray! I Am So Excited! so I have been busy packing & packing & packing some more, (which is the reason, I havent had much time to blog) No more renting but Owning! I highly recommend you to be a Homeowner! It is a long process & I will be more than happy to share w/you a bit of the process in the next blog. Save your money so when the opportunity presents itself, you will be ready ;) You can Do it! So with the move, Soul Collections will have its own room w/more space & freedom.

Sew what's been happening? Beginner's started off w/a bang! w/their Pin Cushions, which look like Jeweled Miniature Pillows ;) & Lunch Totes! I bought some new fabric designed Vinyl frm Mendels.com for the Tote & 1 of the students wants to make Boxing Gloves. This fabric is perfect for him to begin with! Every month @ Soul Collection's Sewing Room, students learn how to Sew w/some challenging Projects, and it is also an outlet for students to explore their ambitions in sewing or generally in anything. It's a creative outlet for students to be themselves :)

Well Intermediate Students made a Pencil Skirt, Short Sleeve Woven Shirt w/Placket & Peter Pan Collar, w/the Collar Drafted by the Student Mary :) And a very Cute Gaucho Pant! We had to add to the Width of course, because these Commercial Pattern Sizes are still using Sizes that are approximately 4x smaller than the American Standard Measurements. Sew always, before Cutting the Pattern out, make sure you measure the Pattern & compare to your measurements & add to the Width if necessary. You can always take out of the Fabric w/a Dart for Shaping @ the Waist.

Victoria's Pant is not quite finished, she still has to hem it & finish the Waistband & she wanted to add Belt Loops. But Victoria tried it on & it fit well. We took in a little more of the Dart @ the Back Waist, because the fabric was gapping.

And last but certainly not least we had Flat Patternmaking as well, and Candice learned how to draft the Basic Slopers that forms the Basic Dress, which is the foundation for every Design.

I'll be back soon ;)

What's your Purpose?

2011-04-10T19:18:00.000-07:00

Hi Readers :)

I missed writing you all :) i really did! Well it has been a Buzzee Month to say the least along with a bit of adversity. (I had started writing this blog in March & I had to put aside) Whenever, adversity comes, I have learned to detect where it is coming from and why? Then I took note of the season & time I am in & reset my Focus. So for a brief topic, My focus is on Purpose & Values. What is Purpose? Purpose is that which a person sets before him or herself as an object to be reached or accomplished; the end or aim to which the view is directed in any plan, measure or exertion. When you know your Purpose, which I do, you won't settle for less.

*****************************************************************

Sew, March's Beginner's Sewing Students are on the move w/their Dreams, Ambitions & Goals! Jackie learned how to alter her Nurses Uniforms as well as her plans to make some of her own. Princess has her own Art Boutique & plans to make Art to Wear! And Victoria is starting her own Marketing Company! These young ladies are very focused & upcoming Entrepreneurs!

I was watching CNN not too long ago, and the Business segment came on, and it was said, "The only way, America will come completely out of the recession is if "We" Ordinary, Everyday people start their Own Small Businesses. Sew, anyway, I personally feel like we are not as bad as before, so use your Creative Minds & Start Something New!

These ladies are continuing into Intermediate & have begun their projects of a Mid-Knee Wide-Legged Goucho & a Pencil Skirt :) Remember Commercial Patterns, such as McCalls, Simplicity, Butterick sizes run SMALL. If you are a Size 8 in Ready to Wear, (which is somewhere btwn 38" - 38 1/2" Hip, you will probably be a Size 14 or more in these Patterns according to their Size Chart, which is on the Closure of the Pattern Envelope. These Commercial Patterns go up to a Size 12 (sometimes Size 14 for Missy), which means technically you would need to buy the Women's Patterns 1X-2X 3X etc. to accomodate 38 1/2" Hip Measurement.

Women's Patterns are made differently to accomodate additional purposes. So to avoid this possible dilemna, first make sure you know your Bust, Waist & Hip Measurements before purchasing a Pattern. Next, you can alter the Missy Patterns to fit your size by first measuring the Patterns Hip & Waist & then add the additional Width necessary, and you can always take out of the Waist by creating a Dart, which is what we had to do in The Art of Intermediate Sewing Class.

Now, it is best to do a Pre-Fit to determine the best area in need of adding the Width, because it may not need to be added all @ the Outseam (if you're making a pant) or @ the Sideseams (if you are making a Shirt) This gets into light Patternmaking Corrections, which is my field of study ;) This is another reason I highly recommend taking The Art of Flat Patternmaking. Not only will you be able to make Your Own Patterns according to Your Own Size, but you will understand the principle of Pattern Development & how one things affects another. So I'll let you know how their Projects progress to the end of April.

April's Beginner's Sewing has begun along w/Patternmaking. I have some more very creative Students using their minds to expand their territory, one interested in making Boxing Gloves & another who is all about the Colors & uses her creativity to reconstruct her daughter's clothing from head to toe! Maybe she will allow me to post a pic of one of the outfits she added ribbons & additional designs to make her child's outfit unique. In the mean time, here is a pic of one of the projects (pretty pin cushion) Beginner's learn to make made by Danele. This one looks edible :)

Until next time, Stay tuned to Soul Collections

Fashion Illustrator Classes for Beginner's

2011-03-10T17:56:00.000-08:00

Good Day Everyone!
Well Beginner's have finished their Challenging Projects & we're off to the next New Beginner's for March! Time is Flying ~ that's why you can't wait to put off until tomorrow, you have to Start "something" Today! Time is given to Everyone. And it is a matter of what you do with Your Time :) Sew, February's New Beginner's are continuing on to Level 11 & 111 Intermediate Sewing, while the Tailored Jacket Specialization Class is finishing up on their Custom Fit Jackets ;) Take a Look..

One Seam Paper bag Elastic Band Waist Skirt w/Slit & Mitred Corners

This fabric is a Lightweight Stretch Twill. The fabric was somewhat cut from using for other Projects, but it is just so beautiful how the skirt turned out, cutting away the choppy parts of the fabric to make the Pattern directly on the Fabric, (next time I will take a picture of the Fabric especially from the pieces of my excess) to show how you can make something beautiful out of scraps.

This Bag is Gorgeous!! Again made by Beginner's; Mary was running late & forgot cut pieces of her bag @ home. But she did not worry & was more than willing to "just cut out the other pattern pieces missing out of another color even if it didnt match." Well it just so happened that I had a little bit of the Poka-Dot Vinyl left, just enough for the pieces she needed & wallah! Sew a mistake, can be a Success!

Beautiful Tiger Print Jean Lunch Tote made by Eugenia. We added some Fusible
Interfacing on the Inside of the Jean to add some additional Stiffness to the Bag in order for it not to be so soft
Both Bags are Fully-Lined made by New Beginner's :)

The Tailored Jacket Specialization Students are broadening their horizons with the making of this Jacket. It is Advanced & takes some time to make a Nice Garment. And Nicole who is a little further ahead, I can say is truly meeting this challenging, yet intriguing project. Can we say, "Wow!" It looks Beautiful!! Nicole purchased the Fabric from Africa on one of her trips to Africa!! The Fabric is a Patchwork of all different Squares Stitched Together & she wanted to make her Jacket with this Fabric. I think it looks Fabulous!!!!!! It is not done yet, but here is a glimpse...

We added a Centerback Slit to the Pattern for more Detail, we also Lengthened the Sleeve as the Pattern is a 3/4" Sleeve
along with all the other Fit Corrections for Nicole's Custom Tailored Jacket

And last, but certainly not least, Fashion Illustrator for Beginner's is Soon to Start in April!!

This class is specially designed for Beginners to learn how to draw Flats on the computer through a software known as Illustrator, and these Flats will become 2-Dimentional Silhouettes! I am so looking foward to this class, so I can learn as well & get all my designs on the computer & colored in :)

Some of my designs are on scrap pieces of paper here & there & need to be in one place for developing a Story Board, Portfolio, or just viewing what I have for Development. I am so Excited!

Julie B, an Intimate Apparel Designer & Illustrator Instructor will be a Guest @ Soul Collection's teaching this Class.

Sew that's It, for now. Blog you later in a couple of weeks when we will be talking about Skirt Patterns & Draping :) Now I must get to writing these Final Papers for School.

Tailored Jacket Continued - Sleeve Sloper

2011-02-22T20:17:00.000-08:00

Hi Everyone :)
Well, we are in slight slow motion w/the Tailored Jacket's Class. But I will come back to that in a moment. The New Beginner's will be in their last class on next week & they are doing Spectacular! I also have a Private Lesson Student who was unable to commit to the 4 weeks, but has learned how to use the Machine & Stitch Perfectly Straight Lines using the Edge stitch Foot, which many students use incorrectly until the last class, & various Stitching Techniques & Sew a Zipper Application in a few hours. His goals are to make his own clothes. And then there is Mary in College studying History, but not to become a History Teacher, but to incorporate Sewing w/Historical Costumes & Eugenia who was looking for a Creative Outlet w/a past-time of Sewing as she looks to fulfill her goals as a Photographer.

Students learn the principle to making anything, which is Turn & Stitch with 1 of their first projects of a Pin Cushion. I think It is so Cute!!!

Eugenia's Pin Cushion

Ok, now back to the Jackets. Nicole, who is very tall, we only had to make a slight adjustment & add some inches to the Sleeve for Length. Solange, who is very short classifies her as a Petite Size. Now, I am not crazy about Simplicity Patterns. The instructions are not "sewer friendly" in my opinion, nor in some of my students who have used these Patterns. So I re-wrote the Instructions over for smooth sailing. But the Patterns also seem to be for Missy Tall, as this Jacket fit Nicole perfectly with minimum amount of corrections.

Another smaller issue w/the Pattern is the dart placement is way too high for any of the sizes marked. Darts do not grade, so I wonder what model did they use to determine the Dart placement? For the Sizes the girls cut out, the Dart is directly on the Apex Point if not higher, which is very bizarre, when it should be at least
1 1/2" below the Apex or Bust Point. And for both students, the Darts needed to move over so that it is Centered under the Bust and not over to the side as on the Pattern. Darts are meant to accentuate your curves by eliminating the excess fabric in the hollow of those curves. So we've moved these darts over & lowered for both students. And even though Ready to Wear is a different size range, both of these students are a size 2 or at the most 4 and are using the size 12 following the Bust, Waist & Hip measurements on the Envelope. I really wish the Commercial Patterns followed more of the U.S. Standard Clothing Size Range rather than these measurements, which seem to be from about 1985 when a Size 8 was considered a Size 12.

Anyhow, we did our Test Fit on Muslin & the Jacket is not fitting properly for Solange, who is Petite. Petite really only refers to the Stature & not size. The Across Back is restricting her arm movement, so we are going to add more Width to the Across Back. This is another reason I recommend The Art of Basic Patternmaking, so you can make Your Own Patterns according to Your Own precise Measurements & it will Fit ;) Grading down to a Petite Size from Missy Size incorporates the overall Length being Shorter, which the Pattern pieces have lines to shorten, yet the overall Jacket does not fit as well on her. There is also the option of gathering on the Sleeve Cap, which Nicole chose to have, but Solange does not. But there is not another Sleeve Pattern without the gathering in this package. So what are we going to do? Well thankfully, I know Patternmaking to draft a whole other Sleeve for this Jacket Body.

If you would like to know more information on

How to Draft the Sleeve Sloper

click below to view the Sleeve Sloper Notes ;) (for a limited time only).

Well that's it for now, I will keep you posted. And Don't Forget to join Soul Collections
for Beginner's Illustrator Classes Coming Soon w/Guest Intimate Apparel Design Instructor!
Students learning how to draw what they always
wanted to design ;)

Tailored Jacket Specialization

2011-02-09T17:41:00.000-08:00

Hi Everyone!

Well, it has been a full few weeks into the New Year! I hope everyone is writing their goals down. Remember my Blog from 1/7/10 called New Beginnings, well take a minute to read. I think it will be encouraging to you in starting something you never thought you could do.

Soul Collection's is in its 1st Week of Classes w/the 1st Set of new Students in the Art of Beginner's Sewing & continuing Students in the New Advanced Tailored Jacket Specialization!! I am so Excited!!! Did I mention that Sewing is Fun, Creative, Social, Therapeutic, Relaxing, The Oldest Textile Art, an Excellent Craft & Saves you money in Making Your Own Clothes? Well these girls have gone from The Art of Beginner's Sewing with no experience using the Sewing Machine to making a Tote Bag, Zippered Purse, Poncho, and one of the students a Lined Vest, the other a Tailored Pant w/Side seam Pockets, Waistband & Front Fly & both doing Skirts w/Lapped Zipper & Facing to now a Tailored Jacket. We are @ the beginning stages w/making a Muslin Fit First, highly recommended for a garment of this caliber. Both students have cut out the Pattern (using Simplicity 2728 Project Runway Pattern) in Muslin & transferred the markings using Tracing Paper & the Tracing Wheel. We tried on Nicole's Shell so far, without the Sleeves attached (that's her homework :) & I do see an adjustment to the Shoulder Seams needing to come forward. So the Back Shoulders will Transpose forward & take off from the Front Shoulders to fit her particular body, but I'm thinking to keep the Sleeves in the same position, otherwise the Sleeve will be twisting. So once she brings the Jacket to class on this coming Saturday, we will mark the Original Shoulder Seam as a Notch on the Sleeve to be sure that they are matched properly when she cuts it out in the actual fabric. Once the Fit is modified to their Body Shape, they will have their own Custom Fit Pattern to take home. Nicole is also using a Beautiful Patchwork fabric she purchased in Africa! I'm excited :)

My Cut Jacket started last year...

Sew, I'm thinking I will have a chance to sew my Jacket I started last year, while the students are sewing (:-) I started a Corduroy Jacket that looks absolutely Fabulous, but I think I am going to modify the Neckline now that I am reviewing it again to this lovely Boat Neck & then the Buttons will just go diagonally on the Body. So then all I have to do besides stitch the Sleeves is make a Facing for the Neckline & C.Front Opening & Cut out the Lining. The Back has a Faux Inverted Pleat shown below faced on the Inside to create the illusion. For the Two Piece Sleeve, I modified the Pattern by making a 4" Slit or what's commonly known as a Vent, but without any buttons & a Mitred Seam shown below, which I love!.

Vent Facing for the Faux Inverted Pleat @ C.B

Mitred Corner Seam on Sleeve

I hope this still fits me....it's fitting well on this small mannequin...hmmm....

to be continued

And I'm happy to announce a new Teacher, an Intimate Apparel Designer, Julie Burgardt!!!

Julie will be a guest Teacher @ Soul Collections teaching Students

Beginner's Flat Sketching on Illustrator.

Students aspiring to Design will learn how to Draw Flats & Fill in Bodies using the Illustrator Software Program via the Computer. I am So Excited!!!! Stay Tuned to www.soul-collections.com

Hot Topics - The Sewing Poll

2011-01-17T17:02:00.000-08:00

Hi Everyone!

I'm celebrating Martin Luther's King's Day, today, the day the entire Nation observes. The Power of One.

Sew today :) we are going to discuss some Topics that you, the Reader has asked in the Sewing Poll.

Buttonholes - Buttonholes are really only tight zig-zag stitches and are really not that hard to stitch, but you do need to mark where you would like them to be placed before stitching, which can be done w/a fabric marker or Tailor's Chalk which erases off w/the iron. Horizontal Buttonholes should be placed 1/8" from the Center Front Line (if it is a Button Front Top). Vertical Buttonholes should be placed exactly on the Center Front Line. The Length of the Buttonholes is determined by the diameter of the Button + 1/8" in order to get the Button through the Buttonhole. If you are using a decorative Shaped Button, such as a star or diamond shape, practice different Buttonholes sizes on a scrap piece of fabric first to determine the correct length. Now most machines come w/automatic 4 step built in Buttonhole maker & a Buttonhole Presser Foot. So all you need to do is turn the knob to A or 1 & stitch the first line following your marked Buttonhole to the desired length, following the diagram as to where the needle point position should be in your fabric for each step because the needle remains in the fabric while you pivot the fabric for each step; then turn the dial to B or 2 for the Bottom of the Buttonhole; turn the dial to C or 3 for the second length line & and lastly, turn the dial to D or 4 to finish the top of the Buttonhole. If you miss a step, then you would need to take out those stitches & redo. Now of course, there are always alternatives :) Jonathon's Embroidery in N.Y does Buttonholes for $1.00 per Btnhole. (may be a little more now, since inflation, but it may be worth it to you especially for Coats).

Understitching - Understitching is a stitching technique used to prevent Facings or the Under Collar from peaking out or rolling out to the outside of your garment. The Seam Allowances that are stitched together are pressed open (you always want to press your seams open first for flat seams) then press the Seam Allowances Under the piece you do not want rolling out. For instance, if it is a Facing, stitch the Facing to the garment piece or pieces, press seam allowances open for a nice flat seam & then press those seam allowances so it is Under the facing & stitch close to the edge.

Seam Allowance defined is the distance from the Raw Edge of the fabric to the Stitching Line.

Controlling the Fabric or Seam Allowances - The Sewing Machine comes w/a guide known as a Seam Guide. The Seam Guide has Lines that are guides to keep your Stitching lines straight. The Lines are in 1/8" increments from each other, but 3/8" away from the needle point. So the first line is 3/8" (for most machines, others may start w/1/4") then the next is 1/2" (3/8" + 1/8" = 1/2"), the next is 5/8" (which is the common Seam Allowance for all Woven Fabricvs, the next is 3/4" etc. etc. What you have to remember when sewing is to keep your Eyes on the Guideline & Not on the Needle in order to maintain the Seam Allowance you are using & a Straight Stitching Line. You really just have to go slowly when going around Curves keeping your Eyes on the Guide.

How to choose the Right Fabric? Now if you are making your own Patterns, learn how @ Soul Collections ;), we normally draft for Woven Garments, however I do also offer Patternmaking for Knits. And in this case, you would need to go Fabric Swatching, (you choose fabrics your interested in @ the Fabric Store & ask for a swatch), then bring your swatches to class & I can advise which would be the best for your project. If you are buying a Commercial Pattern, such as Vogue, McCalls, Butterick, on the back of the Pattern Envelope, it list Suggested Fabrics to choose from. The Suggested Fabrics will be specific whether it is a Stretch or Woven. Some of the Patterns will indicate not recommended for Stretch Knits. All other fabrics that are Woven (non-stretch) you really just need to spend some time in the fabric store & look to see what grabs your attention. Silks, Satins & Chiffons, I do not recommend unless you are experienced in Sewing. Jean Fabrics you know are going to have the least amount of movement which is known as Drape. The same w/Cordorouy. Rayon & Rayon Blends are nice, Cotton Lawn Fabrics are thin, but usually have nice prints. And don't be afraid to ask the fabric specialist in the fabric stores for their recommendation. And don't forget to bring the Pattern to the store w/you, which will give the attendant a better idea of your needs.

Thanks Everyone! Classes are in Session @ Soul Collections & I will talk to you soon!

Soul Collection Patterns

2011-01-04T16:34:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year Everyone

I wish everyone to have a Prosperous, Healthy, Peaceful, Happy New Year for 2011.

Soul Collection's starts the New Year with Soul's Pattern Collections so you can join in & sew these fun projects along with us! The Chic Fashion Lunch Tote w/Side Pocket or Side Zipper Pocket is two of several Collection's Patterns being offered w/Easy to Read Sewing Instructions. I carry my Tote, which is so convenient, everyday to my full-time profession (Sr. Technical Designer) for Ralph Lauren Sleepwear w/my lunch, supplies, a book & my Ipod or cell phone in the little side pocket :) This bag is approximately 4 - 4 1/2 hrs to make, and for your convenience, all Pattern Pieces are cut out in the actual Fabric & Lining of your choice from Soul Collection's Trendy Fashion Fabric's supply thru http://www.fabric.com & the Fabric District in NYC.

So, log onto http://soul-collections.com/patterns.htm to place your order ;)

Some of the other Patterns Soul Collections will be offering (just to name a few) is the Poncho Pattern w/variations, slightly different from the ones the students make, but just as Easy to Sew along w/Tunic Patterns, which is my favorite piece of clothing to wear specially designed by Soul Collections. And these are just some of the hottest trends for 2011 that you can find @ Soul Collections.

For the up-to-date Fashion Trend News go to http://www.millionlooks.com

Lastly, but certainly not least, Patternmaking students that completed the Basic Flat Patternmaking Class in December are returning to Design using the Slopers they made from their own measurements :) I am very excited that they want to further this skill & begin to Design. If you don't utilize Flat Patternmaking, you'll never know what you can make & that is all by trial & error. So they decided they want to make a dress. So over the Christmas break, I asked them to come up with a sketch of their design & we are going to use their Basic Slopers to draft their dress. This is going to be fun!

Stay tuned.

Happy New Year!!!

2011-01-02T18:23:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year "Twenty Eleven"!!

Release Your Faith this Year

Merry Christmas!!

2010-12-25T09:00:00.000-08:00

For to us a child is born. To us a son is given; and the government will be on His shoulders. His name will be called Wonderful, Counselor, Mighty God, Everlasting Father, Prince of Peace. Isaiah 9:6

Christmas is the day the world has set aside to celebrate the One who Gave His Life for Us, Jesus the Christ.

Merry Christmas Everyone & Happy New Year!

Tis the Season for Sewing

2010-12-23T15:38:00.000-08:00

Greetings Readers!

Well as we prepare for the Greatest time of the Year, Christ-mas, the Gift that Keeps Giving, Soul Collections finished the last Sewing Class for the Year 2010 until the New Year & Students have engaged themselves to be challenged, succeeding in what they didn't think they could do!

From the 2 Colorway Square Pin Cushion,

to the Versatile Mini Zipper Purse, to the Fully Lined Vinyl Chic Lunch Tote,

to the Traditional High Collar Embellished Poncho using Boucle & Sweater Knit Fabrics! Pinking Shears were used on the Seam Allowances to prevent the fabric from fraying & giving it a nice crisp cut.

Stay tuned to Soul Collections for the upcoming New year 2011 as New Online Classes & Soul Collection Patterns are birthed!

Just a little Tip: Knowing the functions of how your Sewing Machine operates when first starting out is the Main Focus, and the girls succeeded in mastering to finish their projects. Otherwise, 9 times out of 10, you tend to become frustrated w/the Sewing Machine not working properly unknowingly, it's due to its operator. And as a result, students tend to lose the zeal to stitch & create. Remember not to hold the fabric tight when stitching as the feed dogs of the machine (see the raised tracks in the image, those are the feed dogs) & the feed dogs automatically push the fabric to the back underneath the presser foot, which holds the fabric in place; (the presser foot is in a raised position in the image to show the feed dogs). The feed dogs works much like a conveyor belt, and if the operator holds the fabric tight instead of guiding the fabric against the seam guide lines, you end up restricting the feed dogs, popping the thread, having to re-thread your machine over again, causing bobbin problems, as well as tight stitches on your garment.

Thank you for reading :)

Sew to Perfection

2010-12-08T18:26:00.000-08:00

Season's Greetings Everyone :)

I love this time of the year, but it seems to come so fast & leave so soon. Well Soul Collection's Students have been flourishing :) New Beginner's Sewing Students have met the challenge in Soul Collection's new Fall/Winter Sessions. We start off with baby steps, but concentration, focus, a goal to reach & perseverance will have you sewing to perfection in no time, as well as using these principles in every day life! As Brielle said, a new Beginner wants to learn to make her own clothes, "Sewing is therapeutic" "and gives you good eye & hand coordination"; Sewing is Social, it is a good friendly environment to meet people & network.

Oscar, who has designed his own line, is interested in making his designs & selling his Very Unique pieces on his own Internet Store. Oscar went from never using a sewing machine to sewing one of his 1st Projects, Soul Collection's Lined Drawstring Vinyl Lunch Tote :) along w/making his Grandma another one of Soul Collection's Project's a Poncho.

When sewing Vinyl, you have to adjust your Stitch Width (or Stitch Length) to the highest number adjusting the Thread Tension as well to easily stitch thru the Vinyl, the Stitches on Vinyl, as well as Leather are wider. Also it is recommended to use a size 14 Needle.

Deviney is in College for Marketing but spends a lot of money on clothes to go dancing & wants to make her own for her active social life :) Colleen who teaches austisic children within parent's homes actively makes her little nieces creative dresses & pillows in her spare time, and was able to complete the Poncho project to give to her sister for Christmas. All the students were definitely Challenged & Succeeded! Excellent Work :)

the Poncho has a small Flower embellishment created by Machine Gathering a Strip of fabric on the fold; to Machine Gather, you must turn you Stitch Length to the highest number ie: 5 & your tension dial to the highest number; it will automatically gather the fabric, and because of it's shape, you just curve it into a Rose Shape for the Center of the Petal. Machine Gathering can be used to create Ruffling too, it gathers all the fabric @ once, without you having to pull any threads

the Poncho can either be worn slightly Off the Shoulder, or

with worn as a High Collar. I couldn't resist & had to make myself one, but I made mine slightly different though ;)

I extended the Collar adding a Facing, so it can be worn covering the head :)

talk to you soon!

Happy Thanksgiving 2010!

2010-11-25T12:04:00.000-08:00

Have a Happy Thanksgiving Day Everyone!

We have so much to be thankful for,

which takes more than just one day to give thanks!

So, Let's Give Thanks to God for allowing us to see Another Day!

Soul Collection's Chic Lunch Tote

2010-11-04T19:24:00.000-07:00

Hello Everybody!

November kicks off one of the busiest months to end the year & the most Challenging for New Beginner's Sewing! Soul Collection's Chic Lunch Tote is just 1 of the various Projects students will be learning w/a Drawstring Lining. It's Just the right size to carry a Book, or an Ipad, your Lunch, or Shoes & Cell phone. I am so Excited for them! Sew if your looking to do something New, register for Soul Collection's Classes :) talk to you soon!

Create

2010-10-23T20:00:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!
ok, so remember our word for Fall is Harvest, the season for business, well, we have been busy!! Jin, one from Intermediate Sewing is finishing up her jean using multiple Stitching Techniques, mainly Topstitching as the Jean is classic w/Topstitching, but also incorporating Zig Zag Stitching, 5 thread Overlock to create Faux Flat-Fell Seams & Edgestitching. Jin's boyfriend helped in drawing a creative design on the back pocket for Jin to sew. And she used a double action Zig Zag Stitch to go along the drawing.

And the October's Beginning Sewing Class finished up their projects today & in general the students have been taking care in their lives outside of sewing. Marilisses taking classes in law school, Samanthi in Computer Science, however, also thinking of developing a clothing line; Ozzy & Eddy working on starting their own Businesses, Tanisha a Fashion Stylist, by right (and being inspired, she hand embroidered a leg w/a shoe onto her Zippered Pocket for added embellishment :) I have to ask her to send me the pic to share w/everyone!! Eddy & Ozzy wanted to make skirts as their final projects instead of the shorts. (Incidentally, it was quite fun..nee, but we will skip that part). They bought their own fabric from curtains & recycled into a Sheer Paper Bag Elastic Waist Pencil Skirt! The 1st thing they asked me, was "How creative can we be for the final project?" I love it!! They revised the Pattern @ the Bottom as they envisioned the look they wanted & wallah! and Ozzy's skirt was High-Waisted w/a slit up the side!

I was so proud of all of them for not being afraid to imagine & allow their creative juices to flow, all from their first time sewing ;)

Sew, just remember, when Sewing their are no mistakes, only Creative Designs. There's nothing that can't be fixed or made into something else.

Back to Fit Problems for brief Solutions: Back Rise is Cutting in; it's too scooped in & needs to be filled in. Front Rise Seam has too much excess fabric; it needs to be scooped out. The body is an amazing course of study. We are fearfully and wonderfully made. Marvelous are the works of God who created us! And to analyze the body is to know how to Fit a wonderful garment.

Patternmaking starts Nov. 6th w/1 seat available as students learn how to make their own Patterns according to their own bodies. November 6th also kicks off the Fall/Winter Sessions of The Art of Beginner's Sewing launching students to Level 11 Sewing Skills. November is filled! December has 3 seats available. see you soon! Don't be afraid to do something new :)

Grainlines ~ Transitioning into Fall

2010-10-08T18:09:00.000-07:00

Hello Readers

Autumn, a word formerly known as Harvest & now alternatively recognized as the word Fall, which marks the transition of Summer into Winter. Summer a Season of Fruitfulness, transitions into Harvest, a Season of Reaping & Gathering.

Harvest also is signified as the proper Season of Business.

Sew now, it's Time to Sew!

September's Basic Beginner's Sewing, on a very hot day, finished the last day of class w/a slightly different version of the French Seamed Short w/a Paper Bag Waist :) The Paper Bag Waist is simply extra Fabric that is Gathered @ the Waist, which was created w/the Encased Elastic placed below the top of the Waist resembling the top of a Paper Bag ;) It has a semi-ruffling affect. Meanwhile, Intermediate Sewing Students are working on their Jean, Classic Women's Shirt & Classic Tailored Pant, hoping to finish tomorrow.

One thing I would like to discuss briefly & I will continue in the next blog is the Grainline. There are Grainlines on Fabric as well as on Paper. On Commercial Patterns, there is a Straight line w/usually an Arrow @ the Top or Bottom of the Straight line pointing to the direction the Pattern should be layed on the fabric. This is the Grainline. Most of the time this line will also say Grainline. If you draft your own Patterns, you would need to indicate where the Grainline is by drawing on your draft a Straight line w/an Arrow. Problems arise, when the Pattern is not aligned w/the Grainline of the Fabric. You are going to end up with Fit Problems. And some of the Fit Problems on a Pant is Stressing of the Fabric coming frm the Inseam & excessive Fabric @ the Outseam. The Thigh will appear to be tight, but yet all the fabric is directed on the outer leg and it is really the result of the now cut out & sewn Pant is "off grain", because the Pattern was not layed on the fabric correctly. We will discuss some other Fit Problems that you may even be experiencing on the next blog. I'm back in school (Post-Grad now & must attend to my studies, paper due Monday :)

Lastly, but certainly not least, November Sewing begins the Fall/Winter Sessions of The Art of Beginner's Sewing w/some very New Challenges & I am So Excited! There are 2 more Seats left!! Here's just a glimpse of some of the Fabric Colors students will be working on to create their Chic Lunch Tote! :)

See you soon!

September's National Sewing Month!

2010-09-10T17:23:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!

September is National Sewing Month "The observance of National Sewing Month began in 1982 with a proclamation from President Ronald Reagan declaring September as National Sewing Month “In recognition of the importance of home sewing to our Nation.”

Sew what am I doing? Sewing! w/the rest of the girls in September's Beginner & Intermediate Sewing Classes :) In Intermediate Sewing, each of the students are making projects of their choice, which includes Fitted Jeans, Classic Tailored Pant & a Classic Perfect Fit Shirt along w/myself taking the Classic Perfect Shirt and making it into a Button Down Dress. The students are going to be learning the details of a Pattern & according to their chosen projects: Placket & the Sleeve Cuff + Placket, Shirt Collar & Collar Band Construction, Buttonholes, Darts, Princess Seams, Jean Assembly & much more! These are all from Commercial McCall's Patterns. And just a tip, the Commercial Pattern Sizes are not the same sizes you wear in Ready to Wear. You may be a size 6 in Ready to Wear Garments in the stores, yet a size 10 on any one of the Commercial Patterns. So, know what your Body Measurements are before you go shopping for a Pattern; take your Bust, Waist & Hip Measurements, because you may be surprised the size you are on Paper :). But after you make it, you can call it any size you want ;)

Happy Sewing Everyone!

And don't forget, the Art of Beginner's Sewing @ Soul Collection's is Extended Time & Intensive Challenges starting November for the Fall/Winter Season. Sew start off your Holiday making someone Novelty Gifts!

The Art of Basic Flat Patternmaking

2010-09-01T16:31:00.000-07:00

What do you get when you make these Pattern Slopers?

A Full Outfit!

Stay tuned to more Designs based off of Basic Pattern Slopers

developed from

Your measurements or Standard Industry Measurements

......... to be continued........

http://www.soul-collections.com/

Pant Adjustments

2010-08-17T17:30:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!
I hope you all are having a Great Week. The word for the day is Focus on the Positive. When we stay focused on the Positive it stimulates Growth, expands our vision & we move forward to progress. When we stay focused on the negative, we take two steps backwards, stunt our growth & we remain at a standstill.

The month of July was a very busy month, yet productive & progressive, while August Beginner's are underway. However, I would like to highlight 2 students of the month in the Art of Intermediate Sewing, in which both students finished their intensive projects working very hard, but w/in the timeline permitted. Kemi, a returning student needed to take the class to perfect her skills as a summer intern for a Designer. And Aurea, who already was sewing @ an Intermediate Level, but wanted to refresh herself as she had not sewn in years. Kemi completed the Classic Missy Tailored Pant in a Soft Lightweight Suiting's Fabric. And we put a little twist by finishing the inside w/1/4" French Seams. :) We also Clean-finished the Front Fly Facing by stitching the Fusible Interfacing (right sides together) to the Self Front Fly Facing first, and then turning & fusing the Fusible Interfacing to the Inside (wrong side of Self Front Fly Facing) which Clean-finishes the raw edge of the Facing.

Aurea completed her project of a pair of Jeans. However, we ran into a slight problem in the fit of the Jeans after about 90% of the jean was finished including the Zipper. But not to worry, because your the boss! You can create anything out of a mistake in sewing ;) Sew, we made it fit! Yes, it is recommended to cut out & sew a muslin fit first, however, the majority of students registering for these Intensive classes want to get from point A to Z within a short period of time, and the Commercial pattern states the Size & Finished Measurements. So using those instructions, the Jeans ended up being too big in the Legs & too low in the Rises. There is an Art to developing Women's Patterns, in which my experience comes from the Intimate Apparel Industry where I fit sleepwear on Women's Sizes & adjust Pattern Corrections for a more attractive Silhouette. We raised the Crotch Seam approx 1" & made Center Seams dwn the Front & Back Pant & reduced as much as could be done dwn the Out Seam. This correction reduced the Pant Legs approx -6" Total. What a difference! The Pant overall aesthetics looked good on Aurea & on a hanger.

mistakes are fixable, we just have to use the right hemisphere of our brain = creativity

"Just Keep Sewing"

2010-08-05T16:09:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!
Well it has been a Busy month of July! Finished w/a very big classes the end of July. And New Beginner Sewing starts this coming Saturday for August. I am currently away in Atlanta @ the Sewing & Craft Alliance to get my Teacher Training Certificate! :) Hurray! Everyone, do what you love & everything else will follow. As a member of the American Sewing Guild, they hold Sewing Conventions every year helping those of us who are interested or already involved in the Sewing, Fashion, Fit Industry. This organization is a replenishment for us & a wealth of information. I encourage everyone interested in making a career or hobby in the Sewing & Craft Industry to become a part of this organization. "Knowledge is Power"

So, here are some Sewing Tips of the Month:

The Handwheel of the Sewing Machine: Always Turn Towards You; otherwise you could cause the machine to malfunction & set the timing off.
The Take Up Lever on the Sewing Machine: Always have the Take Up Lever @ it's Highest Position when threading the machine, otherwise when you begin to start sewing you'll have to re-thread your machine again.
The Strawberry @ the end of your Tomato Pin Cushion is for Sharpening your Needles
Use an Elastic Guide instead of a Safety Pin when threading the Elastic thru Casings

Don't worry about mistakes that you make, Just Keep Sewing.

'There's no mistakes, only Creative Opportunities.'

Sewing is not only fun, but the best thing about it is you are the boss! You Create it by making it with your own sense of style no matter what that may be in your choice of fabric, color or design, whether you are using a commercial pattern or your own pattern.

Sew, September is National Sewing Month ~ Learn how to Sew ~

Sewing is Social, meet new friends; Sewing is therapy, get into your own zone & sew;

Sewing is a place to be yourself; Sewing is Creative;

And Sewing is Fun!

Pant Styling & Zipper Applications

2010-06-24T22:10:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

Well I have definitely been away way too long, but not without doing many, many things. Sew what's happening here @ Soul Collections is Beginner's Classes are full until September, so don't wait to learn a new skill :)

Cecilia finalized her Custom-Fit Pant in the Pant Styling Class & made her first pair of Slacks w/Side Seam Pockets, Fly Zipper Front & Separate Waistband starting from a Draft, which became her Sloper, to later become the Pattern! We worked out the kinks making & remaking the Drafts until we reached 99% perfection to add the Seam Allowances making the Patterns in order to test in Muslin the Fit. In making Patterns, all pieces of the patterns have to match w/the lines blending smoothly together, which is called "trueing", in order to sew the pieces together later in fabric. Now, she is ready to Style her Custom Fit on her own, because she already has her Sloper made, which is the Foundation for any other designs she may have in mind. Cecila wants to continue to make a pair of Jeans, which there is a whole science to each classification of the pant. Cecilia is going to be a life learner in her Specialization of choice, as the options are endless. Of course, all takes some time to develop, approx. a week of diligently working to complete a pair of pants, but the Foundation is there, which solves the major problems.

Pant Styling

Now June's Beginner's are finishing up on this Saturday their first Sewing Classes! I really love their energy! So I decided to spring a new zipper application to the mix ;) w/this group of girls, well they really enjoyed the outcome (hee,hee) even though they weren't crazy about the process. You ever wonder how that pocket gets into the garment w/a zipper? It is a very easy technique & there is so much you can do w/this little zipper pocket. There is an Art to Zipper Applications, one reason being the strange shape of the zipper foot stitches close to the edge of the zipper teeth, & you really don't have to do much other than lightly guide the fabric as the feeddogs push the fabric thru, so it is not a time to press hard on the foot to go too fast. And like anything that's worth accomplishing, the process may be a struggle, but the outcome will be a success!

And last but certainly not least, Basic Flat Patternmaking resumes on Saturday to draft the Sleeves, the Torso Body & Basic Straight Skirt Slopers. I have two Entrepreneurs in this class that are experts in their field, Wendy who teaches Sewing, as well @ the Community Centers @ Higher level & Valeria who makes Handmade Soaps & Body Luxuries, she will be incorporating Intimate Apparel w/her Body Luxuries & the Olive Kelp Soap I love :) Valeria sells on etsy @ http://www.designsbyvaleria.etsy.com/

see you next week :)

Jamaica!

2010-05-31T18:39:00.000-07:00

Hi Everyone!

I Just got back from vacation in Jamaica, Ocho Rios! I highly recommend vacationing @ the all in-clusive Club Hotel Riu! I had soooo much Fun! It was a definitely a needed vacation where they don't worry about a thing & neither did I.

"Everyting" is "no problem mon"

Here a short video pic of the studio of Wassi Art where they make the clay into these Beautiful Art Pieces, which of course, I bought some :)

I enjoyed horse-back riding into the carribean sea :), sailing on the Glass Boat, walking Dunn's River Falls, the pool & all you could eat!

of course the beach relaxing in my life saver in the ocean :)

and taking a tour through Jamaica's Botanical Garden, some of their trees has healing in its leaves

Yeah mon!

now back to work....no problem

Pant Styling

2010-05-09T18:04:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers
I hope everyone is doing well ~ the Spring season is here, which symbolically represents Life, Health, the Start of "something", Thriving & Growth just to name a few. Sew think about your next move & Spring forward!

Well it is a busy month of May; all three classes are in effect, The Art of Basic Sewing, The Art of Intermediate anddddd! The New Pant Styling Class began this past Saturday! The Pant Styling Class is a Specialization allowing the student to master the Pant :) We have “started” by developing the Pant Sloper according to the student’s personal measurements. There is a method to developing the Pant, whether it is a Classic, Slacks or Jean fit. Once the Sloper is "Trued" properly, which we accomplished this weekend, Cecilia traced the Sloper to make a Pattern by adding the Seam Allowances & then cut out in the muslin fabric for Fitting. Once the fit is approved, this Sloper will become the student’s Block to use for any Style Pant she so desires! They won’t need to worry about whether the Pant fits again unless of course for weight gain or loss. Then, we will proceed to Design Details!

In Intermediate, one of the students wants to specialize in Plus Size Clothing, which by the way, is a very profitable market if one Masters the Fit. So, we adjusted a Missy fit Pattern for a Women’s size by proportionately adding to the Outseam & the Inseam of the Pant (not just adding to one side) & to both Front & Back & the fit was successful! Sew if you need to adjust a commercial pattern, take your measurements accurately & then divide your full measurement in half, as you will only be working w/one Front & one Back Pattern (but cutting out two on the folded Fabric) then divide the half measurement into half & proportionatey divide Front & Back for the adjustment. Ex. Hip 40-1/2”=20-1/4” take 20-1/4 = 10-1/8” and proportionately divide to the Front & Back Pant.

We're moving foward fast this weekend!

Challenges

2010-04-27T15:37:00.000-07:00

Hi Everybody!

I've entitled this blog post "Challenges", because it is something we all face in life & I just want to highlight the positive aspect of challenges :o) Challenge is an undertaking or difficulty that is stimulating to the one that engages in it. One thing about Challenges is, if you never engage yourself to be challenged, you will never know how far you can go or how great you can become. Sew in this first quarter of the year of New Beginnings (remember, that is what the number 10 means), I have been challenged & my students have challenged themselves to learning constructive skills @ Soul Collections that will take them as far as they want to go :)

The Beginner's Sewing Class challenged themselves to learn how to sew & at the end, everyone achieved the task, and the majority of the time, there is always a shining star, Gloria, who finished her boxer looking like it came out of a boutique! Again Congratulations to your achievements!

Then there is Ryan, who challenged himself to learn Flat Patternmaking. He also wanted to learn how to make a Sloper w/his measurements, so we took his measurements & he used the same principles to develop his Front, Back & Sleeve Patterns for Homework! He cut it out in the muslim & tried it on for fit. Yes there are some tweeks to it, but overall, he has a Shirt Block, that can be manipulated into many other Designs in his future endeavors. Next week in our final class, we will be drafting the Pant & Ryan has already decided he wants to make Designer Vest Outfits!

You never know what you can do (in the positive & moral sense of the word) until you try. Don't be afraid of challenges; they come to make you strong & better. And don't be afraid to challenge yourself to something new.

Sew this coming weekend, students return for Intermediate Sewing. And I have challenged myself to a few more patterns students can select from, whereas possibly everyone will not be working on the same exact project this time, students will be at different paces & phases. So we shall see...but I think it will be fun.

And last but certainly not least, I finally finished classes for this semester, so now I can get back to my jackets & one in particular that I had started, but hadn't had time to finish. This is a Tailored Jacket, so there will be an Inside Lining. I already have the Lightweight Weft Fusible Interfacing throughout the Jacket, the Armhole will be prepared by stitching a stay tape in order to maintain the shape & using a Sleeve Head to maintain the nice shape of the Sleeve Cap. Here are some pics to where I am up to now. Hopefully by next blog, I will have sewn in the Sleeves, Lining, Collar & Buttons. See you soon :)

French Seams

2010-04-06T10:19:00.000-07:00

Good Day Everyone!

Well March's Beginner's Sewing Class finished & April's Beginner's and Flat Patternmaking Design began last week! May seats are filled for Beginner's & June has 5 available seats. Of course, I have to brag :0) on each & every class, because every class is unique in its own way. April's Class students put a lot of effort into their work. They were very focused and completed their projects. I really have to say, all of the student's work was done Very Neatly & that is Key in whatever you do in life.

The students were very careful in maintaining Seam Allowances to the instructed Widths; And all students utilized the Edgestitch Foot accurately maintaining 1/8" Stitching Lines away frm the Fold for Hems & Seams! Very Well Done!

As a result, the students produced a Gorgeous Boxer Short Inside & Out!!

I challenged the girls to do the French Seams, which is a 1/4" enclosed seam allowance, however, not only on the Outseam & Inseam but along the Rises as well, which is the curved portion of the Short.
These pics are of the Inside of the front of the Short, Completely Cleanfinished w/French Seams @ Frt & Back Rises, the Outseam & Inseam. 1 1/8" Waist Turnback Hem was maintained using the Edgestitch Foot (Stitching line was maintained 1/8" away frm the Fold, same as on the Leg opening Hem) There is a little opening @ the C.Frt Waist where the 3/4" Elastic was inserted into the 1" Tunnel, which Meli stitched the opening up afterwards.

Garments should look like you can wear them inside out! And that's just what one of the girls commented on for the work she put into it. Mind you, the actual sewing only took approx. 45 minutes, which included creating the French Seams; the cutting & ironing took up the rest of the 1hr 15 min. In order for your garments to look professional, you must press or iron after every seam (in the direction of the grain) & then the Hemline must be even using a seam guide or ruler to maintain the width all around.

And Look @ How Beautiful these Shorts Look from the Inside Out!

The students never had sewn or used a sewing machine before but learned how to sew in 4 weeks! Thread the Bobbin & Machine on their own. And were able to sew the curve of the seam allowances along the Rises accurately maintaining the cut edge @ the seam guideline on the machine & create their French Seams!

Bravo!!

And Spring is here :), which means a New Season has become.. just some Food for Thought.

Happy Easter! The Celebration...

2010-04-04T09:02:00.000-07:00

Happy Resurrection Sunday!

I just want to take a blog time out to give Honor to my Father, the King of Kings! on this Great Day, the 3rd Day, Jesus rose up from the Grave w/All Power in His Hands! Now, because He Lives, we can Live also through Him! He is Still Resurrecting people from Spiritual Death! "And just as He said I will Rise Again,,,,I'll be Back Again! And I'm giving the Whole World an Opportunity to Believe the story & embrace the New Life!' (John 3:16) Jesus said My Purpose is to give Us a rich and satisfying Life. (John 10:10 New Living Translation (NLT)

"Today, you are not a failure, because He is able to present you faultless"

Thank you

Thread Tension, Applied Elastic & Professional Sewing

2010-03-26T17:00:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers!
I am Sew Happy to be back :) I have been soooo busy again! Many of you know I do hold a full-time Career as a Technical Designer & I have been extremely busy on my job waking up earlier than usual to get in earlier & in school 2 days a week w/some reports to do & speaking to do :)
But I always feel it when I am unable to touch base! I have been making a Tailored Jacket for myself, but had to put it aside due to all of the above, I'll share later how it turns out. Finishing up last class on Saturday students in the Beginning Sewing Class. April's Class is Filled & May's Class has 1 more seat! Jump on board for June!

Sew let's start w/your questions!

Thread Tension
Many people have questions about the adjusting the Thread Tension or even what it is. All machines have a Tension Dial for the Top Thread & most for the Bobbin Thread which is located directly on the Bobbin if your machine has a bobbin w/a removable case or a built in bobbin case. {The tension on your bobbin if you have either of the above mentioned rarely needs adjusting, it is already adjusted by the factory ready for when you purchase a the new sewing machine} The Thread Tension controls the pressure on the threads threaded through the machine. It determines how fast the threads feed thru the machine. When tension is correct on both threads, a balanced amount of thread forms each stitch. Too much pressure = too little tension = too little thread for the stitch; Too little pressure = too little tension = too much thread for the stitch. 3 is a good number on the Tension dial to start with, but as a rule of thumb, the Higher the number, the tighter the tension. You also have to test your stitches when using other fabrications, you may not have worked with previously. If you have a new machine, I would suggest you remember the number it is on & do not adjust the dial after testing on scrap fabric. Usually everything is already adjusted for your new purchase :)

Professional looking Silhouettes
It's all in the Press! Of course Sewing Straight lines or perfectly Curved lines Following the Guide lines helps too! But you must Press or Iron w/Steam your Seams after each Seam you create. Iron in the direction of the grainline & I learned something new to Iron directly on the stitched seam you made in order to seal the threads. Then you press the Seam Allowances Open, this way the seam lays Flat on the outside, depending on whether you are doing inside seam finishes, such as a French Seam or Flat-Fell Seam, then you would continue in constructing that seam. But the first steps must be accomplished before moving to any seam finishes. You should also Iron on the right side of the fabric on the Seam too, however, being sure to cover the fabric w/a press cloth.

Elastic applied to Undergarments
Elastic directly applied to any garment takes some practice, just as with anything practice makes perfect. First determine what is the Finished Elastic Measurement is needed. Then you would need to divide the Elastic into some points. So if it's a Slip, you would need a Center Front, Center Back & Sideseams. If it is a Leg Opening, then Outseam, Inseam & maybe the Center of the Leg. Mark right on the Elastic & then pin Elastic to the Fabric @ these points. Notice that your fabric may be wider than your Elastic measurement, which is the reason for the markings. Because you are going to stretch the Elastic matching each marking to each pin point while you're sewing! The markings help control the Elastic proportionately onto the fabric as you stitch :)

Keep the questions coming!

Pencil Skirt into A-Line Skirt & The Classic Men's Pant

2010-03-03T20:42:00.000-08:00

Dear Readers

My apologies for being away so long. I have been Super Buzeee with a few things; completing a paper for school (prereq's into my Master's) busy finishing up final classes w/New Beginner's, final class w/Intermediate Sewing highlighting this gorgeous Men's Tailored Pant & starting New Lessons w/returning Students for Intermediate Sewing. The Art of Basic Sewing for March is filled for this coming Saturday w/some new students from meetup.com :) Soul Collection's is busy helping students learn life long skills in Sewing :) April only 2 seats left..

Sew bringing something new, (I have to keep reminding myself of my goal in helping students find their niche) sew, sometimes, I need to switch things up, and in the Intermediate class, that's what's happening. The girls were more interested in making skirts than pants, as they indicated they wear more skirts than pants. So, we took a pencil skirt pattern & modified it to fit their body type into an A-line Skirt w/Inside Facing & Side Lapped Zipper. They learned minor pattern adjustments of Closing the Dart & Slashing & Opening the Pencil Skirt eliminating the Dart into a slightly Flared Skirt. They are fitting their skirts @ home in a similar fabric before we meet this Saturday & before they cut out in the actual fabric of their choice. It is recommended to always make sure you fit a sample in similar fabric or in muslin before cutting out in your nice fabric, even when using a commercial pattern. Sometimes the size you may wear in ready to wear may be smaller in size with a commercial bought pattern, such as Vogue for instance. It all depends on the customer fit a particular company targets. That's why I love developing my own patterns from Slopers of my own measurements, that way, no matter what pattern I design, I know it fits from my initial fitting with the sloper :)

John, one of my Students of the Month (remember he is the scientist) has completed his Tailored Classic Men's Pant for Intermediate Sewing! He has learned how to sew enough to branch out on his own :) Mission accomplished! John's Men's Classic Pant came out Beautifully! The pant was Professionally made by him with the Single Welt Back Pockets, Fusible Interfacing Inserted, Slanted Sideseam Pockets, Lapped Front Fly w/Facing Zipper, Waistband w/Underlap & Overlap and Button Closure, Hong Kong Piping on the inside Seam Allowances and Blind Hem Stitching @ the Btm Leg Opening!! John's Pant was Well Done & I am very Proud of him! He wore it already & said it fit well! This pant is from a Burda Pattern. John has only been sewing for 8 weeks & learned @ Soul Collections! All it takes is Determination, Patience, able to follow Instructions & willing to be Challenged! And John's work speaks for itself! Excellent!

Stay tuned to Soul Collection's Blogspot.

Updating shortly on my latest practice jacket w/some nice little tips i learned :)

and i did not forget about the questionaire form; answers to your questions will be

in the next blog ;)

The Welt Pocket & The Planner

2010-02-02T10:30:00.000-08:00

Hello Everybody!

We are in the 2nd Month already of the New Year! I hope you have decided your goals & sticking to a plan on how to achieve it. Time and Timing is essential to your future. We have to make the most of our time, so we are prepared when that season in time presents itself with an Opportunity. Soul Collection’s is now offering 2010 Year Planners for a limited time! I used this particular Planner the year before & loved the fact that it was compact & convenient. I switched to a bigger planner last year & barely kept up writing in it, because it was bulky to carry around and did not always fit in my purse. Sew I brought this Planner back!

The Engraved Soul Collection's Planner includes 54 Inspiring Weekly Quotes; 47 Useful World Wide Web Sites & Toll-Free Numbers along w/U.S Travel Maps with a richly embossed Black Vinyl Cover and a Flat Pen included conveniently pocketed in the back of the cover to help you stay Organized throughout the year & Get Things Done!

See the side panel for the low cost of $6.00 or 2 for $10 while supplies last.

Lots to talk about!

This weekend the girls worked hard in the Art of Basic Sewing to complete their final Elastic Waist Short project & complete the Zipper Application. It was Marathon Sewing Saturday! Whatever the girls did not complete in Basic will pick up in Intermediate. Then they will go on to their desired specializations. And I am very proud of Louisy who purchased her first Sewing Machine!

If you're looking to start a Small Business log onto http://www.risingtidecapital.org/ The Community Business Academy is a 10-week course offering hands-on training in the fundamentals of starting and growing a business. The meeting starts on Feb. 13th and is free and applications will be handed out. A good friend of mine was able to get far with her handbags due to this course.

Intermediate Sewing is in advanced mode! I am very pleased on how professional these Classic Pants are coming along! Andrea assembled her first Mock Fly Lapped Zipper Application beautifully. Side seam pockets are stitched & ready for the Hong Kong Piping Appliqué stitched to the Outseam & Inseam of the Pant before assembling together. We are almost done here to move onto another 4-hour project of a Pencil Skirt to finish Intermediate Sewing within the next 2 weeks!

John is past the hard part of the Welt Pocket, which is a very advanced Pocket Detail, but he made it thru the slitting & turning of the Piping Welts! (left-side image shows the inside w/the fusible interfacing & piping welts attached before slitting & turning. right-side image shows outside of welts after slitting & turning onto the right side..very tricky pocket) We are working on commercial patterns; I changed the Women’s 2 Dart Classic into a 1 Dart to make it more modern. In addition, one of the directions on the Men’s Pant Pattern Instructions had an error on the inside pocket needing to be turned in the opposite direction to hide the raw edge. Sew being aware of how things are to be stitched together. Commercial Instructions can have errors as well. I always re-iterate to the students to sew using your mind being fully aware of what you are doing & not just sewing blindly.

Soul Collection's Pant Styling Specialization starts this Saturday. This course is one of my new ones & a fun one! The student will develop their own Personal Fit Pant Sloper to make their very own Pant Patterns to fit their body type! We'll be sewing 1 Knit & 1 Woven Pant within the 5 Weeks. Private Lessons for Flat Patternmaking started last week w/a New Designer named Sunshine that you may very soon see in the stores!

By the way, please take time out to fill out the form on either Soul Collection’s website or on this blog. Let me know if there are specific things you would like to see or learn & next week I'll answer your questions :) Have a Great Week & don't forget to Plan and make the most of your time!

Tailored Pants ~ IntermediateSewing

2010-01-24T14:28:00.000-08:00

Hello Readers

I feel like it has been a long time since I shared with you...maybe it has. Firstly, I would like everyone to know that I am praying for the survivors of Haiti & the Restoration of Haiti's Country along with my Church. We raised as a corporate body $100,000.00 from last Sunday, and the Pastor has given a check to the Haitian's Relief Fund through the Brooklyn Borough President, Marty Markowitz, along with purchasing medical supplies and other necessities to help Arise and Walk & Doctor's without Borders, which are 2 of the Missions providing Medical, Healthcare, & make shift Clinics to all those in need from this devastation. I would love also to incorporate an ongoing project for donation of sewing children's clothing with the students to help in the relief. I will keep you posted on the developments of this project.

Soul Collections is off to a very busy start of the New Year. Flat Patternmaking Design is starting this Wednesday for private lessons & we are nearing the end of the 4th week in the Art of Basic Sewing next Saturday with the new group of Students. The girls are doing Wonderful! Upon completing the 1st class, Margaret went home & used her sewing machine that she had never used in 5 years, and stitched a Pillow!!! Excellent! This is my goal with all my students, to motivate them into Creativity, Find their niche, Start something & then Finish it! And Monique suggested to have a Fashion Show showcasing their (the students) work!! Excellent Idea & very Inspirational for students interested in developing their own line of clothing! Soul Collection's will soon be implementing this idea w/Monique's help of course ;) possibly in the summer of 2010. And not to leave out my other students who are becoming comfortable with using the machines & the techniques useful in making their own skirts & further developing this skill.

Student's that have taken The Art of Basic Sewing having learned the fundamentals can either take Intermediate or one of the Specialization Courses. {Intermediate as you remember was Advanced, but I took it down a notch, because some of the students felt they needed more once finished w/the Art of Advanced Sewing.} Now Advanced is categorized into Specializations for Students seeking their niche.

Sew having a male Student, John has returned for Intermediate Sewing, and I decided it would be beneficial for him to learn how to sew a Man's Tailored Pant as Andrea cuts out the Women's Classic Pant :) The Man's Pant Pattern has several more pieces in comparison to this Classic Woman's Pant, although the Woman's Pant could have the same amount of pattern pieces as well. What I am mainly referring to is the Welt Pocket!! This pocket is definitely an Advanced Technique, however, John is willing to be challenged! Sew @ the beginning stages, we have thread traced the Welt outline, in which the Pocket's Piping pieces, forms the welt will be stitched onto. Both Pants have Darts.

A Dart is used to give shape to a piece of fabric in order to contour the body.

Here we are looking @ the back of the Men's Pant (not sewn together as of yet) with a Back Dart that leads into the Thread Tracing of the Welt Pocket Stitching Lines.

Darts are pressed towards Center back or Center Front of a Garment. I think it is best to stitch from the Point to the Widest part of the Dart. And the best way to press Darts is on a pressing aid (another Sewing Tool you want to add to your Sewing Kit) known as a Tailor's Ham. It maintains the shaping that is created after stitching the dart. It's also used for Collars & anything that is sewn with a curve. This view is the outside of the Pant.

Sew tune in next week as we bring these pants to life!

New Beginnings

2010-01-07T16:22:00.000-08:00

Sewing This Year involves involves more than just Sewing....

This year, I really want the student's to develop and allow their creative juices to flow. The familiarity of any art or science is perfected with use, known as a skill. The more you use any skill, the more comfortable you become and the more your mind expands in creativity, needless to say the many Small Businesses looking for someone to Help Sew their Garments or Bags. Soul Collection's (me) is one of those Businesses ;). There are also Street Fairs & Flea Markets all throughout Brooklyn, Manhattan & Jersey looking for New Designers with New Ideas, whether it's clothing, home furnishing, or accessories and as one of my new students mentioned alterations. You can develop a Small Business from any of these, and it's fine too, if you're learning to sew to make clothing for yourself. Any way you use it, you are helping the economy, whether it's purchasing fabric, being employed or becoming the employer.

Sewing is a much acquired skill that is always needed.

The message to start off the year that I received is "No Procastination" & why we procastinate. Ironically, the first week of the year, I went into an artstore that I frequent often, and in plain site was a book being sold on How to Procastinate! Of course, I opened it up & read a couple of pages & it was quite hilarious. (lol) But although I wanted to purchase it, just as a jokingly type of book to have, at the same time, I did not want any of those thoughts in my spirit that we in actuality do, {that's why the book was so funny}, and to be honest sometimes I really don't feel like doing anything! So, I thought best not to entertain any thoughts or encourage myself to do what I could do all by myself without the added humor.

This Year is a year of fulfilling Goals. When you set goals, you are breaking down the components necessary to accomplish that goal. And goals can only be done if you Write them down from Start to Finish. I personally can not get much and sometimes anything accomplished unless I write it down. How are you going to start? When are you going to start? Are you going to get up early, stay up later, or manage your time better? What is needed to start? What are the inbetween stages? When do you want to finish or accomplish the goal? Writing puts everything in perspective, so that You can achieve your dreams. Write the Vision, make it plain! Whose vision is it? It's your vision, make things happen for yourself!

2010

The Number 10 equals Completeness

10 years equals a New Decade

New Beginnings

2010-01-01T05:19:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year's Day Everyone!

Welcome 2010!!

Countdown ~ Reflections

2009-12-30T16:10:00.000-08:00

Greetings Everyone!

We are almost at the home stretch of 2009 about to enter a Brand New Year 2010! Twenty~Ten; Ten = Perfection. I am Excited for what the New Year brings! Positivity Births things out, no matter what it looks like! Reflecting back on 2009, ask yourself what can I Do (present tense) Better and Begin to write out your goals for the Year to come.

"Your Vision is Your Future"

I am always intrigued by my student's backgrounds & professions. And I wish I could highlight everyone. However, time nor space permits. Sew in closing this year, I will just highlight the ending Art of Basic Sewing Student, John. John was just learning how to sew and became a very fast learner! John Professional Career as a Bio Chemist!! where he does laboratory work for human genes...Amazing! John is also going back to school for his M.D Degree and possibly open his own clinic! And he is not yet 30! He wants to make his own tailored clothing, which is why he is taking sewing lessons. John's work is immaculate, very neat & precise!

Sew, when you're Sewing, here are a few important things to remember:

Be Neat! Its more important to maintain straight stitching lines than to speed sew
Maintain the Seam Allowances: the stitching lines are in 1/8" increments on most machines located on the throat plate
Always Press your Seam Allowances Open to get a nice flat seam on the outside
Always Press in the direction of the Grain or you will encounter wrinkled hems & seams
Use Steam when pressing or ironing unless otherwise directed.
Press or Iron on the Wrong side of Fabric
Invest in an Edge Stitch Presser Foot, all of your hems, or Topstitching @ the Edge will be Perfect!

The countdown begins...I'll see you in the New Year! Do something positive on New Year's Eve Night & Be Safe!

2009-12-24T19:07:00.000-08:00

'Oh, Holy Night, the Stars are brightly shining,

it is the night of Our dear Savior's Birth
Oh Nite Divine, the nite when Christ was Born!'

Merry Christmas

Sew to Completion

2009-12-14T18:47:00.000-08:00

Hello Readers!!

I am back ~ I needed to concentrate on the last few weeks of school while finishing up the last 2 classes @ Soul Collections (multi-tasking, a very important skill to learn :) I finally finished the book report as a final, which ended @ 43 pages instead of the 20 required, that was a challenge for me, it was my every waking hour, and it was well worth it!!!

Sew now back to Soul!

Students completed the Art of All Classes for the year 2009; Basic, Intermediate, and Basic Patternmaking @ Soul Collections. And I am happy to say the majority are returning to the Advanced Classes. New Classes are also being introduced, i'll talk about that later.

And the Winner is.......

Adeline!!!

Adeline won the contest for Intermediate Sewing with a $40 Gift Certificate to Mood Fabric Store :) She completed her Tailored 2 Dart Pant w/Sideseam Pockets & Facing, Inside Bias Binding to finish the Seam Allowances, Front Fly Lapped Zipper w/Overlap Waistband and Hook & Eye & 3/4" Cleanfinished Hem! Like I said before, everyone is a winner, but only 1 for the prize, although i broke my own rule and could not resist giving my other student a Gift Certificate too for her diligence, perserverance, and her hard work in assembling the pant, which was very neat :) Job Well Done to all the Students!

Happy Thanksgiving!

2009-11-26T11:17:00.000-08:00

Have a Happy Thanksgiving in this Day set aside in Giving Thanks!

Practice Perfects the Gift!

2009-11-18T17:25:00.000-08:00

Well, we are almost @ the close of a Wonderful Sewing Year! The Art of Intensive Basic Patternmaking finished for the year. Adeline corrected her patterns and re-cut the bodice in the muslin. And the Top fit her very well :) We were very pleased! The Front closed properly and it fit close enough to her body with the ease needed for movement.

I had made 3 more minor adjustments to the pattern of just transposing the Sideseams. The Back Width was not enough and the Front Width was too much; took from the front & added it to the back. This will also help re-position her Sleeve to hang and fit properly on the armsyche. And I also scooped out the Back Neck, which as you see is slightly too high.

Now, from this Sloper made into a Pattern for fitting, she can cut it on the pattern on the fold in the front & add a zipper to the back, she can change the neckline to be a V Neck, Boat Neck, Scoop Neck or add a Collar. She can cut out the Front in 2 pieces & add a Zipper or Buttons. She can jazz it up w/some pockets or a drawstring tunnel @ the bottom hem. She can widen the Neck, or make a Tank Top. There are many variations she can do w/this Sloper alone, she can move the darts, change the darts into Pleats, or add Shirring. She can eliminate the Darts altogether & add a Seam.

And truely, I would have to say that all I have learned in regards to Pattern making & Correcting for a good fit, I learned on the job training, inspite of my degree in Pattern making Technology. I learned it by being thrust into it throughout my years in my full-time profession as a Sr. Technical Designer in the Intimate Apparel Industry, making judgments, taking chances and correcting the patterns. And I can say the majority of the time, the fit was corrected. So it is the same principles and concepts to making corrections no matter what field or niche you may decide to specialize in. The key to Pattern making is simply, if you don't Try it, Design it, Draft it & Make it, you'll never Learn it! It is a hands on skill and Practice Perfects the Gift! You can't be afraid to try something from manipulating your slopers to make something. So I thank all of my students for challenging themselves with something new! :)

Just a brief update for Soul Collections courses, Advanced Sewing is now turning into Intermediate Level 2,3 (The Art of Basic Sewing is Level 1) & The Art of Advanced Sewing will be added w/various specializations offered for 2010. Lastly, but certainly not least, we have a Winner!! for the prize in the now Art of Advanced Sewing, which will be presented on their last class Dec. 5th. And the last class for this year starts this Saturday, and I'm looking foward to the students advancing.

Until we meet again, Have a Productive & Wonderful Week!

Pattern Perfection

2009-11-11T07:25:00.000-08:00

Good Day Everyone!

We are @ the close of the Intensive Basic Patternmaking Course; Technically, last Saturday was to be our last day, but kindly, I have extended 1 more week for a couple of reasons. First reason being, we did not finish all of the Basic Slopers needed to complete the course, and secondly, I really want the students (future Design Patternmakers) to be capable of developing their own Body Slopers, or should they decide to specialize in custom-made clothing for consumers, they will be able to develop Pattern Designs on their own with the use of Pattern Drafting Books to help them along. We begin by drafting the Sloper from the Standard Size 8 Measurements, however, I did allow 1 of the students to draft from her own body size measurements. Now,, because we are Wonderfully made in all figures & sizes, our bodies often do not look like the man-made mannequin :), therefore, the patterns may look a little different. It is a teaching curve for me, as we needed to make some adjustments on her measurements for better shaping as I will discuss further. The students turned their Slopers into Patterns by adding the Seam Allowances & Cutting it out in the muslin fabric for wear testing.

And the student who made the Sloper using her measurements tried her Top on and it looked rather nice & fit rather well on her! However, we did need to make an adjustment to the Sweep (Sweep is the bottom hem) adding to the Width, so the Front Opening could come together. We had released the Front Darts & the Center Front was able to Close, but, we still want the option of having the Darts, not only for shaping & elimating fullness, but for manipulating into other various Dart Positions, Changing into Shirring or Pleating, or eliminating to incorporate into a Seams. So we had to Slash & Open adding extra to the Pattern an estimated +1 1/4" from the Sweep straight thru the Apex Point & up to the Shoulder, however, maintaining the Shoulder Seam Width & Armhole @ the same measurements and positions. {We do not want the Shoulder to get any wider, nor the Armhole any lower). Now, we are getting into Pattern Corrections, which would have to be another course. So we definitely need to get to the rest of the Slopers and we will see on next week, as she re-drafts her Front Sloper for Homework & cuts back out in the muslin fabric to check the fit ;). Everyone is a trooper commuting from far, Connecticut, New Jersey & Roosevelt Island, they definitely deserve the extra week.

Now my other student, she did draft from the Standard 8 Measurements, but the Armhole looked a little shallow on the draft. After developing the pattern, we put the Top on the mannequin, and it did show a narrow Armhole, which would result in a tight fighting sleeve without the proper movement: or if making a sleeveless top, the armhole may be too closed in. We fixed the pattern reshaping the Armhole. .

All these little tidbits affect the fit of a garment, but once you perfect the sloper; you will be well pleased in having a perfect fitting pattern to sew in your favorite prints or solids; in silks, wool, twill, jean or satin woven fabrics to name a few adding on a decorative trim to complete your ready-to wear garment!

This student is making a sloper of her body measurements, and hopefully, I will be able to check it along w/getting them thru the Torso Sloper, Sleeve, Skirt & hopefully the Pant. hmmm, we shall see...i'll keep you posted...

Patternmaking can be very rewarding, but you have to keep at it in order to reach perfection. Measurements and learning the tape measure is key, after that it's a breeze, all it is drawing on paper using measurements, whether you're creative thinking new & original or classic, basic & simple, it's a skill worth learning & developing, afterall, you can create your own style all from the beginning!

Soulspiration ~ Talented Gifting

2009-11-04T09:00:00.000-08:00

Greetings Everyone!

This blog is dedicated to the Gifted & Talented, which means YOU! We are all born with innate Talents that for some may need to be cultivated, and for others may come naturally. For instance, Jason, has a talent as a designer, but yet with a special gift to be able to create and design with limited resources. Jason designed an entire line for his Senior Final Project with a very limited amount of funds (similar to the Project Runway challenges) all involving 3 piece outfits, and he utilized all of the scraps of fabric for decorative embellishments, along w/creating yardage out of his jeans to design a jacket taking some of the pockets & stitching them on sleeves to create his look. He recently designed a samurai costume with the fabric he had & some rope. However, Jason did not have elastic for the waist of the pants, and innovatively clipped into the waist all around to form tunnels & threaded the rope thru for his drawstring, very clever! i wouldn't have thought of that! Jason actually loves creating something from nothing!

Anthony can think up recipes off the top of his head without even being in the kitchen!! I told him that is his gift & how he needs to develop an easy cookbook. So now he is going to take on the challenge & develop one. He wanted to know how to make collard greens. Well I'm not from the south, so how I make them is probably not that great, but he suggested how he was going to make them in less than 3 minutes and it had my mouth watering, & incidentally it wasn't the familiar southern way. But I don't want to give away his recipe (lol) we'll have to wait for his cookbook!

My brother has been gifted & talented to draw, ever since he was able to write practically. He could draw anything out of his head that was so realistic, he is truly an artist, and my little nephew may not be far behind. Me on the other hand, learned how to sew at a very early age & enjoyed making my own clothes. But later on focusing on my career as a Technical Designer, I had to look for my talents & gifting working out what I really liked to do. The gifts and talents within me is tactile, and visual, creative, working with my hands & challenging my mind, I just had to cultivate the gift.

Sew, whether you do naturally or have to work at it, find out what you really like to do: And the more you cultivate it, the more you will grow.

The Sewing Room

2009-10-23T17:47:00.000-07:00

Hello Everyone!

Well, it has definitely been a busy month & continues to be, but in a good way :) I'm sorry, I have not been able to blog as often as I would like. I know, 2 weeks is a long time. So, I'll try to keep you updated at least 3x a month... Sew @ Soul Collections, we are in our 3rd week of Basic Sewing, 2nd Week of Advanced & Basic Flat Patternmaking! I am still testing the online Patternmaking w/one of my students. I need to compress the file, because it is too big. The students are cutting out the Classic Pant w/Sideseam Pockets in Advanced. That is one of the projects we will be doing, and I am thinking of incorporating a Yoga Pant in addtn to our other projects, to accommodate my younger student as well., plus, everybody likes a nice comfy knit pant to lounge around in! We completed the Front Bodice, Back Bodice & 2 Dart Slopers in Flat Patternmaking, and the Beginning Sewing Class is cruising into next week's last class. All three classes are very rewarding, as they are learning the concept of construction and using their abilities, gifts & talents to think up innovative ideas, develop flat pattern pieces or an eye-catching assemble! Sewing, especially can be very therapeutic and relaxing as well as fulfilling, so don't be afraid to take a favorite top, copy the pattern & sew it in a new print or solid color :). That will be my next personal project. I have a gorgeous tunic, very simple that I tried on to wear Sunday, and it was too snug :-/. I will trace off the pattern in muslin on my mannequin, and retrace on pattern paper adding a little to the Chest proportionately down to the Sweep & re-cut in some jazzy colors :) I will be sewing this weekend, sew I'll have some new tops next week! And if you can't get to the fabric store, check out http://www.fabric.com, they have nice fashion fabric & a couple of free patterns to download, you can also order swatches, if you're looking for a specific color in particular.

Let's talk about the Sewing Room.

What do you need to get started?

You will need a good Sewing Machine, (try to catch a good sale btwn $75 - $100) 2 pairs of scissors, 1 - fabric sheers & the other paper sheers, seam ripper, 100% polyester thread, bobbins, straight pins, hand needles, pin cushion, tape measure, sewing gauge, iron & ironing board, pressing cloth, and a container, thread holder, bobbin holder or Ziploc bag to hold everything in. Eventually, you will obtain a thread rack & lots of other supplies for sewing, such as a fabric marker, plastic ruler, tailor's chalk, stitch witchery, wonder tape, steam a seam, tailor's ham, seam roll, sleeve board, rotary cutter & cutting board (I will be investing in shortly, it's faster for cutting), snap gun, kwik trace (good for tracing & maintaining your patterns in all sizes) tweezers, beeswax (good for threading the needle), needle threader, collar turner, and many other gadgets you'll accumulate over time as you start building upon your sewing skills. I also keep extra zippers, stretch elastic, buttons in a jar, fusible interfacing (very important) and hook & eye closures on hand for when I feel like making a quick bottom to wear. A sewing table is helpful, but a sturdy fold-up table works just the same! And eventually you will want to invest in an Edge stitch Foot. It's the best presser foot to have for your machine. It makes sewing Hems, Binding, Understitching, Pintucks, {anything where you need a perfect stitch along the edge of a narrow seam} easy!

I'll be back a little later w/a survey...stay tuned to

http://soul-collections.com/

Sew What's New? The Origin of First

2009-10-10T16:48:00.000-07:00

Good Day Everybody!

Well it is a busy month this month @ Soul Collections. The Art of Basic Sewing w/my new students started again this Saturday. And 1 of my machines was missing a screw, so I was down a machine with a full house, however, the students worked together & all were able to finish the 1st Stitching Project. I publicly Thank them for their grace & patience! Great Class & Great Students w/already Great Ideas! Lesson learned I'll be making sure I have an extra back-up machine encase that happens again & allotting for extra time for the unexpected.

This is the 1st time I will be running a Contest in The Art of Advanced Sewing!! There will be a nice Prize awarded to the winner, however, there are no losers, everyone is a winner, but only 1 winner for the Prize. Of course, there is a Criteria that involves a Lesson & I am excited to offer this prize to the returning students!! This is definitely something I will be moving forward with for future classes as well :)

And last but certainly not least, my 1st Online Intensive Basic Flat Patternmaking Course begins as of this week!! Thanks to an out-of-state student willing to take it online gave me the push I needed to create it on video! Yes! I have been recording! all this week pulling some long hours recording and editing to get it done to coincide with today's class. So it turns out 2 more students will be joining taking the 1st Lesson online as well!! Thank you Ladies, that worked out well. And this was a new learning curve for me, very challenging yet fun.

Lastly, I'll be meeting next week to discuss Soul Collection's Outerwear Jacket Line. This is definitely the 1st of many meetings I foresee & will release me to create more, I'll keep you posted.

Now, like I said, my business is not all I do, I have other things to attend to like this 20 (minimum) page paper to write for school that I haven't started yet & another 3 pager. So I'll blog to you in a few! Have a Wonderful Week ahead!

Don't stop yourself from learning, businesses, inventions, ideas, authors is already in you, you just have to find it & then do it!

Sew To Finish

2009-09-26T19:59:00.001-07:00

Another Great Sewing Class completed this past Saturday! I can't believe how fast the month's are going by, however, not without accomplishments. {That is why we have to use our time wisely}. The students in the Art of Basic Sewing completed their final projects of an Elastic Waist Shortie and received an Award Certificate of Completion. They all worked diligently from Start to Finish along with seeing vision for themselves. Let's talk about the word "finish". First of all let's talk about the word "start". We can not go anywhere in life unless we spring into motion, which means to start. We have to start somewhere, and if you don't know where to start, spring into motion upon something new; in other words, take the first step & start at the beginning. But you don't just start & stop; you start & complete to perfection, which is to finish. So, some things we may always be adding on to it to reach Perfection. Polishing to the degree of excellence intended. (Webster's Dictionary definition for Finish). Starting something is just the beginning; you have to keep going & your vision will increase! And this is just what the students did, {along with my many other students, who have done Excellent, in which I can't leave out :) they accomplished their goal & are ready to Advance their skills.

The Shortie is a Good idea for a Gift..huh? I Visited the Brooklyn Flea Market too this weekend; Great place to sell people! So, keep sewing. I will be too, working on my line & last classes before 2010. October is the last class for the Art of Basic Pattern making, however, the online classes will be coming up soon & I think you will enjoy!

I don't think you ever stop learning..there's so much to know, but we can stop ourselves from knowing. Be a lifetime learner and don't stop Sewing.

Sew Inspired

2009-09-23T18:36:00.000-07:00

Sew Inspired.....

is what I've been doing this month! I have been So Inspired and Sew-ing Inspired by my thoughts of creativity! Inspiration is the Infusion of ideas or direction into the mind by extraodinary or supernatural influence or individuals, such as friends, family members etc. And when you activate those thoughts into actions, expansion of those thoughts takes place & you will begin to branch out rapidly moving towards the goal or a goal. First, you need a goal. What is it that you would like to do in life? It could be anything, but it will only come into fruition if you just start it. Write things down and that one good idea will stand out. Then you just have to go with it.

'Imagination is Everything'

Albert Einstein

So just to give you a brief up-to-date of what I have been working on, (incidentally, I would like to blog at least 2x month, so we'll see what happens). However, my business is not the only thing do, my profession as a Technical Designer is full-time, part-time pursuing a Master's in Theology or Divinity (undecided @ the moment), my passion of Teaching as a part of Soul Collections & Designing Jackets as my hobby for the Collection. But my Business is my Future & I love it.

Sew the Jacket..

I perfected the Pattern I've been working on for some time. ... I fit the Jacket, but there was not quite enough lift when I raised my arm & there was some stress around the upper arm area. So, I raised the Armhole a significant amount, and with raising the A/H, I then needed to raise the Sleeve Underarm, but also reduced the Across Shoulder for the Sleeve to fit better on the armsyche & added to the Sleeve Cap Height correcting the twisting & releasing the stress of the Sleeve. After re-correcting the pattern, (and incidentally, I already had these patterns graded, but the fit is much better,,and I will just have to manually fix the other sizes) I re-cut in the muslin (cheap fabric) & stitched it together. Now, I just have to make sure all the notches are on the pattern for when I cut out in the actual fabric, (notches indicate sections to be sewn together) as I have another helping hand sewing. In addition to working on the Outerwear Jackets, the Online classes upon demand will be starting soon for the Art of Basic Pattern making w/Video & Live Chat!

'Get your conscious Creating, Formulate the Vision & Fulfill your Mission!'

Author Laurie Beth Jones

Color & Soul

2009-09-12T19:00:00.000-07:00

Good Day Everyone!

Well I'm in my 2nd Week of new students....already.... time flys when you're having fun! I really meet some phenomenal individuals & I am glad to have them as my students. Just to highlight a couple, (and I'll probably end up highlighting everyone, because they've all inspired, motivated, encouraged, added or activivated me in one way or another) I have student in the Military this month!! She is in the Reserves with one more year to fulfill. She did experience being in Iraq a few years back.. wow! What an honor to have her choose Soul Collections to learn how to sew, because she's interested in making her own clothes. And yet there is another, a young person, making things happen for herself! She interns (a non-paid internship, which says a lot) for a film editor in media entertainment, however, working on the weekends bartending & manages to [make it to early morning class, as she wants to be well rounded working w/her hands! I am very Proud of her! It is refreshing to see a young lady going after her dreams and yet still making a living for herself! Soul Collections is making Soul Connections thru the vast number of people from vast areas of life that comes thru the Art of Sewing & Patternmaking w/their many types of professions & interests. We are able to sit down thru Art & Design and have conversations broadening my horizon as well as others!

I demonstrated my New Workshop, 1 hour Pant Draping Demo last week w/1 Student, draping directly onto the dress form. It's definitely a technique to learn, because you learn the Art of Draping a custom fit pant on a mannequin, which can also be done on a live body & take what you've learned to create your own or do custom fittings on others & make pants for them! The top is a something I was working on for a dress, but this would make a cute jumpsuit :).

There are some minor Patternmaking skills applied to after the pant is draped to complete the pattern. {Half of the Pattern or Garment is Draped usually working on the right side & then you cut out both sides after completed pattern is developed.}

To Reach our Potential we must Show Initiative.
You can do whatever you put your mind to. But you have to put your Mind & Time on it & Do It!

'The Person who Starts First Almost Always Wins'

It's important to put your Thoughts on Paper. Your thoughts will eventually become clear to you what your interests are & enable you to begin writing your Business Plan. Your business plan will be your road map & will show you how to get to where you want to go.
And then begin to write your 25 - 50 Word Mission Statement about your organization making it Clear, Concise & to the Point.

*********************************************************************

2010 Trend

What's the Color & Trend for 2010?

Refresh & Rebirth 2010

Just encase you wondering what Fabric to buy or what's In for 2010, here's a recap from my visit to Tex World this year @ the Jacob Javitts Center. Eye is on Color! Different shades of whites, sand colors, golden shades, lighter golden browns, lots of taupes, sea shell colors; water colors, cool spa, inspired blues, teals, aquas, pool color blues. Freshness, Newness & Harmony/Sunny yellows, lemon cast yellows, kelly green, delicious icecream colors. frosty shades. Refresh & Relaxation/Light weight & fluid fabric; Looser Silhouette, Softened Shapes; 60's Influence. Softened affect lots of ties w/Women's; Return of Pocket Details; Lots of rolling up of the Sleeves; Covered Plackets. Eyelet Fabric; Crotchet; Lots of Lace; Sheer & Transparent Fabric; Sheer Stripes; Cutting on the Bias, Pleats are returning, more volume in the bottom category; Crop Pants & Skirts w/Casual Airy Feeling. Sarong Skirts, Button Front Skirts &Wrap Skirts are back.

You can click on

http://media.lenzing.com/

& go to the media archives for Feb 2009 to view Tex World Presentations.

Collections & Sewing Threads......

2009-08-27T19:41:00.000-07:00

Sewing has become a Lost Art with our busy schedules of working vs. passionate giftings. However, there are many different needs of people and business where sewing is a benefactor to another source of income, or the answer to what you've been looking for in stores to fit your own sense of style. Here is a prime example of a need when a friend of mine was suggesting of more stores that specialize in tops for heavier busted women w/small bottoms! I have a returning student for Patternmaking who only wants to learn to do Yoga Bags & Yoga Pants, another who is innovative w/Swim Bags & Swim Suits, and yet another who only wants to do Jean Skirts & High Waisted Skirts! Your Creative Imagination is endless & Sewing with creativity of the mind and focus on a niche is a very much valued skill! However, just like anything else, practice makes perfect, the more you practice the better you are.

Everyone is born with their uniqueness and creativity. We each have special giftings and talents (abilities) that are different from one another beneficial to our lives & to the lives of others. The key is finding your "niche". What is your "niche"? A "Niche" is something specially suited to your interest, ability, or nature. Take time out to search out what "you" like to do and Get Started!

'the brain is for creativity not for storage' author unknown

So what do I do? encase you happened to not know :) is I teach. That is my gifting. {I also have another blog/website that deals with the development of our creative minds spiritually that you may happen to see} I have been teaching Sewing, Patternmaking since 2005 w/some new Draping Workshops added this year. I enjoy working w/my hands as well, and design as a hobby specializing in Outerwear Jackets and some Designer Separates. I currently have 7 students, which is the norm almost every month, and which is about all that can fit into the space, so far booked up to and including October for Sewing Classes. I meet lots of unique creative individuals not only from N.Y, but visiting from India, Belgium, South Africa just to name a few w/ideas in mind but looking for an outlet or help to bring into fruition. And what is also interesting is that the careers of the indiviuals I've met has been an Ambassador First Secretary @ the U.N. representing Namibia, South Africa, a Math Professor from John Jay Criminal Justice, Police Officer, Belly Dancer, Computer Technician, Financial Advisor, Retiree, Highschool Teacher, Insurance Provider, Mental Health Counselor, and the lists go on w/individuals exploring other avenues of interests. It has been a nonstop summer in the Art of Sewing!

So, I will be sharing with you a few interesting techniques I learned on my trip to New Mexico @ the Sewing Convention this year along with some stepping stones I've learned about Business and Teaching as we progress into the world of Sewing, which for me, encompasses Patternmaking & Design. Also, I recently became a member of the American Sewing Guild Society, which I recommend highly especially for all younger people to join. And incidentally, I was surprised to find out there is not a Chapter here for the ASG in NYC. Unfortunately, I am too busy to start one ;)

Please feel free to ask me questions that I may possibly be able to help you with to reach your goal.

I am also very happy to annouce Soul Collection's 1st Intern started this month as a Design Patternmaker!! She currently is a sewing student learning how to sew, and has completed the Intensive Patternmaking Course earlier this year. She will be a big help to me with Soul Collection's Jacket Line & helping out for a friend of mine @ pippihepburn. She is excited about learning (which is key) how everything comes together. I will also be incorporating Online Classes for Advanced Sewing & Patternmaking coming soon.

So come along & be a part of this creative community

@ http://www.soul-collections.com/.