Pattern Perfection

Good Day Everyone!

We are @ the close of the Intensive Basic Patternmaking Course; Technically, last Saturday was to be our last day, but kindly, I have extended 1 more week for a couple of reasons. First reason being, we did not finish all of the Basic Slopers needed to complete the course, and secondly, I really want the students (future Design Patternmakers) to be capable of developing their own Body Slopers, or should they decide to specialize in custom-made clothing for consumers, they will be able to develop Pattern Designs on their own with the use of Pattern Drafting Books to help them along. We begin by drafting the Sloper from the Standard Size 8 Measurements, however, I did allow 1 of the students to draft from her own body size measurements. Now,, because we are Wonderfully made in all figures & sizes, our bodies often do not look like the man-made mannequin :), therefore, the patterns may look a little different. It is a teaching curve for me, as we needed to make some adjustments on her measurements for better shaping as I will discuss further. The students turned their Slopers into Patterns by adding the Seam Allowances & Cutting it out in the muslin fabric for wear testing.

And the student who made the Sloper using her measurements tried her Top on and it looked rather nice & fit rather well on her! However, we did need to make an adjustment to the Sweep (Sweep is the bottom hem) adding to the Width, so the Front Opening could come together. We had released the Front Darts & the Center Front was able to Close, but, we still want the option of having the Darts, not only for shaping & elimating fullness, but for manipulating into other various Dart Positions, Changing into Shirring or Pleating, or eliminating to incorporate into a Seams. So we had to Slash & Open adding extra to the Pattern an estimated +1 1/4" from the Sweep straight thru the Apex Point & up to the Shoulder, however, maintaining the Shoulder Seam Width & Armhole @ the same measurements and positions. {We do not want the Shoulder to get any wider, nor the Armhole any lower). Now, we are getting into Pattern Corrections, which would have to be another course. So we definitely need to get to the rest of the Slopers and we will see on next week, as she re-drafts her Front Sloper for Homework & cuts back out in the muslin fabric to check the fit ;). Everyone is a trooper commuting from far, Connecticut, New Jersey & Roosevelt Island, they definitely deserve the extra week.

Now my other student, she did draft from the Standard 8 Measurements, but the Armhole looked a little shallow on the draft. After developing the pattern, we put the Top on the mannequin, and it did show a narrow Armhole, which would result in a tight fighting sleeve without the proper movement: or if making a sleeveless top, the armhole may be too closed in. We fixed the pattern reshaping the Armhole. .

All these little tidbits affect the fit of a garment, but once you perfect the sloper; you will be well pleased in having a perfect fitting pattern to sew in your favorite prints or solids; in silks, wool, twill, jean or satin woven fabrics to name a few adding on a decorative trim to complete your ready-to wear garment!

This student is making a sloper of her body measurements, and hopefully, I will be able to check it along w/getting them thru the Torso Sloper, Sleeve, Skirt & hopefully the Pant. hmmm, we shall see...i'll keep you posted...

Patternmaking can be very rewarding, but you have to keep at it in order to reach perfection. Measurements and learning the tape measure is key, after that it's a breeze, all it is drawing on paper using measurements, whether you're creative thinking new & original or classic, basic & simple, it's a skill worth learning & developing, afterall, you can create your own style all from the beginning!