Thread Tension, Applied Elastic & Professional Sewing
Dear Readers!
I am Sew Happy to be back :) I have been soooo busy again! Many of you know I do hold a full-time Career as a Technical Designer & I have been extremely busy on my job waking up earlier than usual to get in earlier & in school 2 days a week w/some reports to do & speaking to do :)
But I always feel it when I am unable to touch base! I have been making a Tailored Jacket for myself, but had to put it aside due to all of the above, I'll share later how it turns out. Finishing up last class on Saturday students in the Beginning Sewing Class. April's Class is Filled & May's Class has 1 more seat! Jump on board for June!
Thread Tension
Many people have questions about the adjusting the Thread Tension or even what it is. All machines have a Tension Dial for the Top Thread & most for the Bobbin Thread which is located directly on the Bobbin if your machine has a bobbin w/a removable case or a built in bobbin case. {The tension on your bobbin if you have either of the above mentioned rarely needs adjusting, it is already adjusted by the factory ready for when you purchase a the new sewing machine} The Thread Tension controls the pressure on the threads threaded through the machine. It determines how fast the threads feed thru the machine. When tension is correct on both threads, a balanced amount of thread forms each stitch. Too much pressure = too little tension = too little thread for the stitch; Too little pressure = too little tension = too much thread for the stitch. 3 is a good number on the Tension dial to start with, but as a rule of thumb, the Higher the number, the tighter the tension. You also have to test your stitches when using other fabrications, you may not have worked with previously. If you have a new machine, I would suggest you remember the number it is on & do not adjust the dial after testing on scrap fabric. Usually everything is already adjusted for your new purchase :)
Professional looking Silhouettes
It's all in the Press! Of course Sewing Straight lines or perfectly Curved lines Following the Guide lines helps too! But you must Press or Iron w/Steam your Seams after each Seam you create. Iron in the direction of the grainline & I learned something new to Iron directly on the stitched seam you made in order to seal the threads. Then you press the Seam Allowances Open, this way the seam lays Flat on the outside, depending on whether you are doing inside seam finishes, such as a French Seam or Flat-Fell Seam, then you would continue in constructing that seam. But the first steps must be accomplished before moving to any seam finishes. You should also Iron on the right side of the fabric on the Seam too, however, being sure to cover the fabric w/a press cloth.
Elastic applied to Undergarments
Elastic directly applied to any garment takes some practice, just as with anything practice makes perfect. First determine what is the Finished Elastic Measurement is needed. Then you would need to divide the Elastic into some points. So if it's a Slip, you would need a Center Front, Center Back & Sideseams. If it is a Leg Opening, then Outseam, Inseam & maybe the Center of the Leg. Mark right on the Elastic & then pin Elastic to the Fabric @ these points. Notice that your fabric may be wider than your Elastic measurement, which is the reason for the markings. Because you are going to stretch the Elastic matching each marking to each pin point while you're sewing! The markings help control the Elastic proportionately onto the fabric as you stitch :)
I am Sew Happy to be back :) I have been soooo busy again! Many of you know I do hold a full-time Career as a Technical Designer & I have been extremely busy on my job waking up earlier than usual to get in earlier & in school 2 days a week w/some reports to do & speaking to do :)
But I always feel it when I am unable to touch base! I have been making a Tailored Jacket for myself, but had to put it aside due to all of the above, I'll share later how it turns out. Finishing up last class on Saturday students in the Beginning Sewing Class. April's Class is Filled & May's Class has 1 more seat! Jump on board for June!
Sew let's start w/your questions!
Thread Tension
Many people have questions about the adjusting the Thread Tension or even what it is. All machines have a Tension Dial for the Top Thread & most for the Bobbin Thread which is located directly on the Bobbin if your machine has a bobbin w/a removable case or a built in bobbin case. {The tension on your bobbin if you have either of the above mentioned rarely needs adjusting, it is already adjusted by the factory ready for when you purchase a the new sewing machine} The Thread Tension controls the pressure on the threads threaded through the machine. It determines how fast the threads feed thru the machine. When tension is correct on both threads, a balanced amount of thread forms each stitch. Too much pressure = too little tension = too little thread for the stitch; Too little pressure = too little tension = too much thread for the stitch. 3 is a good number on the Tension dial to start with, but as a rule of thumb, the Higher the number, the tighter the tension. You also have to test your stitches when using other fabrications, you may not have worked with previously. If you have a new machine, I would suggest you remember the number it is on & do not adjust the dial after testing on scrap fabric. Usually everything is already adjusted for your new purchase :)
Professional looking Silhouettes
It's all in the Press! Of course Sewing Straight lines or perfectly Curved lines Following the Guide lines helps too! But you must Press or Iron w/Steam your Seams after each Seam you create. Iron in the direction of the grainline & I learned something new to Iron directly on the stitched seam you made in order to seal the threads. Then you press the Seam Allowances Open, this way the seam lays Flat on the outside, depending on whether you are doing inside seam finishes, such as a French Seam or Flat-Fell Seam, then you would continue in constructing that seam. But the first steps must be accomplished before moving to any seam finishes. You should also Iron on the right side of the fabric on the Seam too, however, being sure to cover the fabric w/a press cloth.
Elastic applied to Undergarments
Elastic directly applied to any garment takes some practice, just as with anything practice makes perfect. First determine what is the Finished Elastic Measurement is needed. Then you would need to divide the Elastic into some points. So if it's a Slip, you would need a Center Front, Center Back & Sideseams. If it is a Leg Opening, then Outseam, Inseam & maybe the Center of the Leg. Mark right on the Elastic & then pin Elastic to the Fabric @ these points. Notice that your fabric may be wider than your Elastic measurement, which is the reason for the markings. Because you are going to stretch the Elastic matching each marking to each pin point while you're sewing! The markings help control the Elastic proportionately onto the fabric as you stitch :)
Keep the questions coming!
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