Tailored Jacket Continued - Sleeve Sloper

Hi Everyone :)
Well, we are in slight slow motion w/the Tailored Jacket's Class. But I will come back to that in a moment. The New Beginner's will be in their last class on next week & they are doing Spectacular! I also have a Private Lesson Student who was unable to commit to the 4 weeks, but has learned how to use the Machine & Stitch Perfectly Straight Lines using the Edge stitch Foot, which many students use incorrectly until the last class, & various Stitching Techniques & Sew a Zipper Application in a few hours. His goals are to make his own clothes. And then there is Mary in College studying History, but not to become a History Teacher, but to incorporate Sewing w/Historical Costumes & Eugenia who was looking for a Creative Outlet w/a past-time of Sewing as she looks to fulfill her goals as a Photographer.


Students learn the principle to making anything, which is Turn & Stitch with 1 of their first projects of a Pin Cushion. I think It is so Cute!!!

Eugenia's Pin Cushion
Ok, now back to the Jackets. Nicole, who is very tall, we only had to make a slight adjustment & add some inches to the Sleeve for Length. Solange, who is very short classifies her as a Petite Size. Now, I am not crazy about Simplicity Patterns. The instructions are not "sewer friendly" in my opinion, nor in some of my students who have used these Patterns. So I re-wrote the Instructions over for smooth sailing. But the Patterns also seem to be for Missy Tall, as this Jacket fit Nicole perfectly with minimum amount of corrections. 

Another smaller issue w/the Pattern is the dart placement is way too high for any of the sizes marked. Darts do not grade, so I wonder what model did they use to determine the Dart placement? For the Sizes the girls cut out, the Dart is directly on the Apex Point if not higher, which is very bizarre, when it should be at least
1 1/2" below the Apex or Bust Point. And for both students, the Darts needed to move over so that it is Centered under the Bust and not over to the side as on the Pattern. Darts are meant to accentuate your curves by eliminating the excess fabric in the hollow of those curves.  So we've moved these darts over & lowered for both students. And even though Ready to Wear is a different size range, both of these students are a size 2 or at the most 4 and are using the size 12 following the Bust, Waist & Hip measurements on the Envelope. I really wish the Commercial Patterns followed more of the U.S. Standard Clothing Size Range rather than these measurements, which seem to be from about 1985 when a Size 8 was considered a Size 12. 

Anyhow, we did our Test Fit on Muslin & the Jacket is not fitting properly for Solange, who is Petite. Petite really only refers to the Stature & not size. The Across Back is restricting her arm movement, so we are going to add more Width to the Across Back. This is another reason I recommend The Art of Basic Patternmaking, so you can make Your Own Patterns according to Your Own precise Measurements & it will Fit ;) Grading down to a Petite Size from Missy Size incorporates the overall Length being Shorter, which the Pattern pieces have lines to shorten, yet the overall Jacket does not fit as well on her. There is also the option of gathering on the Sleeve Cap, which Nicole chose to have, but Solange does not. But there is not another Sleeve Pattern without the gathering in this package. So what are we going to do? Well thankfully, I know Patternmaking to draft a whole other Sleeve for this Jacket Body.  

If you would like to know more information on
How to Draft the Sleeve Sloper
click below to view the Sleeve Sloper Notes ;) (for a limited time only).



Well that's it for now, I will keep you posted. And Don't Forget to join Soul Collections
for Beginner's Illustrator Classes Coming Soon w/Guest Intimate Apparel Design Instructor!
Students learning how to draw what they always
wanted to design ;)





0 comments:

Soul Collection Courses

Soul Collection Courses
Patternmaking