Intermediate Sewing - Fit Adjustments

Greetings Readers!


I hope you all are doing well & challenging yourselves to undertake something new, you'll never know what you can do until you've tried what you've never done that you desired to do :) (of course, legally & morally speaking, I thought I would just throw that in there) Students @ Soul Collections have challenged themselves in many different avenues this year continuing in The Sewing & Patternmaking Experience. Students who have completed the Art of Beginner's Sewing have advanced & learned how to adjust the Commercial Patterns to Fit their size in The Art of Intermediate Sewing. It has been a great learning experience for them!  First, you must know your body measurements = Bust, Waist & Hip (@ the fullest part), so I measured the girls & compared the difference of their body measurements to the Pattern. Now, remember I said most of the Commercial Patterns are about 2-3x smaller than what you buy in Ready to Wear. So if you are a size 8 in the stores, most likely you may be a size 12 or 14 in the Commercial Patterns. You really have to get familiar w/the Brands that is closest to your size, (I personally like Vogue Patterns). Once we made the comparison, we calculated the difference. Now what I like to do is measure the Pattern (we are only working w/half the Pattern, so whatever measurement it is, you have to multiply it by 2 for both Front & Back Patterns, then subtract the 5/8" S.A x 2 for the same (S.A is included in the Pattern & will state it on the directions). Whatever the difference is, you add that amount proportionately to the Pattern + about 3/8" of Wearing Ease on ea side if it is Woven fabric) Ease is so you can move & sit down in your garment. We started on Muslin Fabric before cutting out on the actual Fashion Fabric. 

 
I recommend to not just add all of the difference to the Sideseams, so what we did for the Pant, we Slashed & Opened the Center of the Leg (if the Waist happened to be too big, you can just take out the excess w/a Dart). We did the same thing for the Skirt. And in order to Slim the Leg Opening (as you may not want that excess width @ the Leg Opening), you can Reduce from the Center of the Leg (known as the Grainline) on ea side (Inseam & Outseam) to the desired Width. And now Autumn & Penny were ready to cut out their Patterns in the Muslin & try them on! On Autumn's Skirt, it looked a little too boxy, so we added a C.B & C.Front Seam along w/a Slits to give her more shape & style to it :) The Skirt & Pants fit & they were able to cut out in the fashion fabric they chose.  Autumn is also making a Custom Sized Vest from Garment Designer Computerized Patternmaking :) We have 1 more class before completion. I will keep you posted :) So far, I love what I see!
 
Soul Collection's starts Men's Patternmaking Next Month!
 Learn something New by Doing something New!

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