Jean Jacket Revised

Hello Readers
Well Hurricane Sandy really devastated some areas in NY. My prayers go out to those who have  are with those who has come through Hurricane Sandy, You will recover all






Greetings Readers!

Happy New Year again :)

Soul Collections begins the New year off w/the re-launching of my New website design @ http://www.soul-collections.com/ & if you "like it" let me know :)

And Soul Collection's starts off with (of course Beginner's Sewing, which is the 1st of every month) & Advanced Specializations with the Jean Jacket.  (I decided to do the Jean Jacket out of Velour Animal Print instead ;) Of course, my dilemna w/the Commercial Patterns is the size range never quite matches up to the sizes we normally would buy in ready to wear. So cutting the Pattern according to my size that corresponded w/the Bust, Waist & Hip Measurements listed on the Pattern envelope, I found the Jacket overall was too big! I did not do a muslin fit first, because of time constraints, however, the students will be adjusting their fits directly from the Pattern pieces, in which I used the Pattern Tracing Cloth from Kwik Trace, w/the help of my intern Tanisha retracing the pieces (Tanisha is the very best:). I didnt want to take apart the seams, I just pinned the Sides & the Centerback..but I pinned the C.B below the Neckline, so I would not need to make any adjustments to the Collar. Then I marked the pins w/Tailor Chalk & used those markings as my sewing lines.

Then just measure how wide you want the S.A. to be (5/8" is standard) & cut away the excess after altering the stitching line. And be sure to press the Seam Allowances Open, even if the Pattern Instruction does not state this (which it didnt).

 Now taking in the S.Seams starting from the Armhole means an Adjustment to the Sleeve. The Adjustment @ the Armhole @ S.Seams = Reduced Chest Measurement. Reduced Chest Measurement @ S.Seams = Smaller Muscle Measurement on Sleeve. I measured the amount I took in @ the Side Seam, which was -1 1/4" (on ea side) (incidentally, this jacket was +4" too big for me, even though I followed the size to cut based on the Body Measurements). I measured in this same amount (-1 1/4) on the Sleeve Inseam (which are the two edges that will be sewn together on the Sleeve) reducing this width @ Sleeve Underarm in order for the Sleeve to fit into the same Armhole. I tried on the Sleeve Shell & the remainder of the Width around the Elbow & Sleeve Opening was also too big, so I just gradually took in this width as well, however, maintaining the
-1 1/4" @ the Underarm.  

The Jacket is not finished as of yet, I'll be back next week w/the Finale :) But I love how it fits now!

Sewing is Therapy & the end results is so fulfilling ;)
 I'll see you next week :)

http://www.soul-collections.com/